Chain came off the bike because it was not rolling correctly and we took the rear wheel apart to see what was the problem and now the wheel doesnt roll correctly and Im not sure if the gears are back in properly
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Try rolling the bike back and forth while trying to take it out of gear if this doesn't work ur clutch has brine burned out and ha s locked ur gears up but this one would be the last thing to check once u have tryed rolling it.
which chain is falling off. the one from the motor? if so check to make sure the sproket (ps i cant spell) and gear fom motor is lined up. on mine i remember having to flip the rear sproket. are you using the chain tenchiner pulley? i think the one that comes with the kit dosnt have a deep enough gruve. i got rid of it all together, and just made the chain fit with like 1.5 to 3 inches of play. ive seen people use the tenchiner from the rear shifting gear on a mountain bike. thats what i suggest. if its the chain from your pedals thats falling of the the guys from the bike shop are messing with you or the alined the wrong chain. or maybe you need to resize the chian they just got the wheel straight.
Ask a local Bike Shop. Derailleurs for that bike are cheap. Evaluating the bike for a bent derailleur hanger and fixing it is a job for the pros. Word to the wise. Never pedal backward or roll the bicycle backward if it is the rear derailleur is not precisely aligned with a gear. It WILL rip bend or the derailleur right off.
It will entail taking the chain apart again (known as "breaking" the chain). The chain feeds UNDER the lower cog on the derailleur, BETWEEN the 2 cogs, and OVER the top one... then BEHIND the gear cluster and back OVER it. Run the other end AROUND the front chainwheels, through the front derailleur and re-connect. You may find it helpful to lay the bike on its side (sprockets up) and have someone hold rear derailleur to keep tension off the chain. Good luck to you.
By the "gear arm" I assume you mean that part of the rear derailer that the chain zig-zags through. This arm moves in two ways. It moves in and out (toward the wheel and away) as you move the shift lever - which is how it changes gears, by moving the chain onto different sprockets (gears). It also moves forward and back (toward the front and back of the bike) under spring pressure. This forward and back motion is necessary to take up the slack in the chain when you are using the smaller sprockets (the smaller the sprocket, the "higher" the gear). When the wheel has been removed, this arm moves forward (under spring pressure) as far as it can to take up all of the slack in the chain. All you have to do is grasp this lever and pull it toward the back of the bike, allowing the lever and the chain to pass behind the sprockets (gears) as you pull the wheel back into it's position. You can safely pull this arm forward and back at any time without doing any damage. One more tip-- I find it a little easier if you first put the shift lever in a "middle" gear position. Then when you pull the wheel into place, you should aim to put the chain on a middle sprocket. You don't have to hit the exact correct sprocket as you can simply lift the rear wheel and turn the pedals forward (after installing the wheel) and the chain will move to the correct sprocket corresponding to the setting on the shift lever.
Good luck! Please vote if you found this helpful.
If your rear wheel is locked up in first and second gear with the engine running, this is not a good sign. Have you ever ran the bike without oil in the transmission? Every time I've seen this, the chain was thrown off the bike and it busted the cases. The oil leaked out of the cases and the transmission locks up. Generally, it locks in fifth gear but it could lock up in any or no gear.
Your problem sounds like something is wrong with the low gear-second gear "clutch gear". The clutch gear is gear that slides sideways on one of the transmission shafts to engage the proper gears. If the bike will roll when in neutral, these may be the only gears affected. If the bike will not roll when in neutral, your problem may be in countershaft. Either way, the transmission could be damaged.
Now, if you're talking about the rear wheel locking up if you try to push start the bike, this is because in low and second gear, there isn't enough mechanical advantage in the transmission to overcome the engine compression. Remember, you transferring torque through the transmission backwards when you try to push start the bike. Try starting the bike using third or fourth gear instead. Standing on the pegs and dropping onto the seat when you release the clutch helps.
I think I can help. Place one end of the chain over the rear gear (doesn't matter which one, the biggest) and adjust the lever or twist ring on the handlebar so the derailleur lines up in a straight line with it. Pull the chain from the rear sprocket down and over the pivot wheel and back over the bottom wheel so it looks just like this S and the end comes forward. Join the chain links. Place the chain over a couple front teeth and turn the pedal carefully until the chain seats on the front sprocket.