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If you have a new head unit then you should have (or can download) the wiring layout for the unit. In regard to the car, you will have a number of wires to identify. Try following these steps:
1. With ignition off. Using a meter or test lamp identify the wire that has permanent 12V. Note this and protect the end (tape it) to stop accidental shorts. This is your permanent 12V.
2. With the ignition on look for another wire that now has 12V. Verify that it comes and goes when you turn the ignition switch. Note this and protect the end of this one also. This is your switched 12V.
3. With the ignition off, and the meter set to measure resistance check the remaining wires for one that shows connection/short to a solid chassis ground point. This is your earth.
4. Speaker wires should be fairly obvious pairs solid colours with a mate that is the same solid colour and a stripe e.g. last one I did was green + green and black stripe on one side and grey + grey/black on the other. To ID left and right just get an AA battery and touch this wires on each end of the battery you will hear a scratching noise in the speakers. Note which colour goes to which side.
5. Wire remaining (if any) will be a remote power antenna lead if fitted.
If you can try first changing the battery of the unit to check if everything will be working fine, because there's a possibility that the battery went bad or worse the unit has some problem with it , if after changing the battery still have the same problem better have it replace and take the new unit Off Shore for your own good.
try wiring it up with both the constant power and the switch power directly to your battery. if it works, then your switch wire inside the vehicle isnt a 12v output.
if it doesnt, then something is wrong with your head unit
As you probably know, the blue wire is the brake wire, have you checked at the truck plug (for the trailer) for power to the blue (brake) wire while someone steps on the truck brake pedal? There shouldn't be any power at the plug until the truck brakes are applied, then you should have at least 12v there.
Radio could be wired wrong. Check the constant and accy power on the radio with a multimeter and make sure you are getting 12V on the constant and getting 12V on the accy only when the car is in accy or on. Also make sure the wire harness is properly wired. This can happen often if the radio constant and accy power wires are wired in reverse.
ok how long you brought the ups and how long you had not start the the ups usaully ups is power dead change the battery and try to power up it should work be sure that all connection is connect properly before power up the ups.. if the ups doest work that will be the mainboard problem you hav to call for vedor to repair the unit.. yes these fuse for the ups but it unlikely to be blown so should worry of the fuse it self.. change of battery come with different spefc for the ups.. eg su3000rmi3u, sua3000rmi3u, su3000rmxl3u --- battery replacement is 8 pcs of 12v 7ah. sua3000rmi2u-- 6 pcs of 12v 7ah or 8 pcs 12v 5ah. su3000rminet-- 4 pcs 12v 17ah,
The head unit probably has 2 control wires. One has 12v when the signal source is the tuner. When you switch to the other sources, the antenna is not needed so the output to that wire is switched off (so the power antenna will go down).
Look for a wire marked amp control or something similar. It will have 12v output any time the head unit is on. Use that one to control your amplifiers.