Question about Coleman Powermate Portable Generator PM0435003
I have taken the engine off but i can't seem to separate the engine from generator
It generally has a long rotor through bolt accessibile from the generator end, this forces the generator rotor onto a tapered shaft on the engine. Once removed the through bolt slide a long bar ion the hole and screw the bolt back in, that will force it off the taper
Posted on Nov 15, 2013
You will need stop the engine from spinning. I removed the pull start cover from the engine and was able to stop the engine shaft from moving by placing a piece of rebar in the mechanism. Remember to remove the spark plug wire from the engine so you don't start the engine.
Remove the bolt that holds the rotor to the engine shaft.
Check the end of the rotor shaft and verify if it is threaded on the inside. If it isn't you can take a tap and create threads. Find a bolt that will thread in the end.
Make a rod that is slightly shorter than the rotor. I cut a 1/4 inch thread all to create one. You will need to determine the diameter that will work for your rotor. Insert in the end of the shaft.
Thread the bolt you determined earlier into the rotor shaft end and tighten with a wrench. It will take sevhow do i separate the engine from generator on pow - 78c257bd-6aeb-40bd-8328-6a1d9f102277.jpgthe engine shaft.
Posted on Nov 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You need a quart of regular old SAE 5W30 motor oil with detergent.
The engines on these generators are more or less the same as a lawn mower.
Don't forget to service/change the air cleaner when you change the oil, that should keep your generator producing full power.
Posted on Dec 15, 2008
Assuming that you intend to someday put it back together, do this:
1 - Make it safe by taking the wire off the spark plug and getting all of the gas out of the tank.
2 - Remove the stator part of the generator. There are 4 long bolts with 7/16 inch heads that hold it onto the adapter plate at the engine end of things and a 1/2 incher holding the end away from the engine down on the frame. Some generators have more than 1 frame mount, these are harder to get out, I use a channel lock pliers to hold the rubber mount and a socket to remove the nylock nut. When it's all loose, pull the molex plug out of the distribution panel (where the outlets are) and then gently slip the stator off of the rotor. Try not to break the windings.
3 - Support the engine/rotor assembly by placing a block of wood, stone, or metal under the rear of the engine.
4 - Take the long bolt out of the end of the rotor. Use a 6 point socket for this so as not to mess up the bolt head. This is also much easier with an air ratchet. The rotor shaft has an "innie" cone shape milled into it and the engine has a corresponding "outie" bevel that fits inside the rotor shaft. This is called a tapered shaft mounting. You can get the rotor off of the engine shaft one of 2 ways...
The "official" method:
Get the kit from Briggs and Stratton, tap threads into the inner surface of the bolt hole, insert the appropriate threaded rod and torque it to pull the rotor free. This only takes one tech.
The "redneck" metohd:
You need a friend you trust to swing a hammer, a fairly heavy hammer (I use an 8 lb sledge), and a chunk of 4 X 4 wood long enough to act as a punch when placed against the rotor laminations. Turn the rotor so that the laminations are horizontal. Put the 4 X 4 against them as far away from the engine as you can without breaking the plastic parts of the rotor. While holding the 4 X 4 tightly against the rotor, have the other guy whack the other end of the 4 X 4 sharply and with a good amount of force. Then rotate the rotor 180 degrees and whack the heck out of the other side. Repeat this process until the rotor pops off of the enigne shaft.
My old shop mate and I got good enough at this to take the rotor off in 2 whacks every time.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
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