Removing an over the range Samsung smh4150 microwave from the wall.
The motor seized and was blowing the curcuit breaker.
when I opened the bottom to disconnect the motor , a motor wire shorted against the frame and now there is no power to the key pad and the lights are out.
I started to remove the oven from the wall to take it in for service,but it is not coming off easily.
I don't have the install instructions.
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Re: Removing an over the range Samsung smh4150 microwave...
You can follow the instruction from manual to remove the oven completely . First disconnect power to the oven. Remove the mounting screws securing the oven to the wall. Slide the complete oven out about 10 inches.
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Your microwave may be plugged into a regular receptacle which is on a circuit breaker often in a cupboard above the range.Check around to see if anything else is not working. Check your circuit breaker box for a breaker that needs resetting. If you see one out of line with the others turn it off and then back on. Good luck..
When you remove the front control panel you will see the two fuses in the next internal section. Below are instructions for removing control panel:
can do this without removing unit from wall. First unplug unit. Next
remove the two screws on the top of the unit closest to the front.
These screws simply keep the up facing vent in place. Next slide the
vent to the left (plastic latches on bottom hold in place) to allow vent
to be removed. You should now see a single screw above the control
panel. Remove it then open the microwave door. Gently slide the
control panel up which will disengage the plastic latches on the panel
sides. Suggest if you are going to remove the controller and replace
take a picture before removing it so you know exactly how to reconnect
all the wires.
Yes I do think the fuse is bad. It is in line with the power cord. It's normally a 20 amp ceramic type. They are readly avaidable at any applinace repair shop or sometimes Radio Shack
Good Luck and I hope this helped.
Ed " Original Radio Man"
I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions
It does sound odd for it to blow the breaker. It should blow the fuse, not the breaker.
But looking at the exploded view diagram, I don't even see a fuse!
Makes me wonder if this is some foreign model. *grin*
In any event, you will need to replace all the door switches since they all have been stressed by the same overcurrent.
Also be sure that all the switch mount and door latch parts are activating properly when you open and close the door.
The switches (generic replacements) are widely available from local appliance parts stores.
If you need any other parts, you can see an exploded view and parts list here: