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The bi metal coil mechanism how do I adjust it? Thanks

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An eleltrically operated actuator mechanism for remote locking and unlocking of a door. The movable bolt is coupled to a solenoid armature for movement in a guide which is registered against the door in the closed position. Thd solenoid coil bobbin is stationary and the pole frame including a magnet,bolt guide and bolt are slidable theron for locating the bolt guide against the door at installation. A spring biases the bolt into engagement with the door upon coil angagement with the door. upon coil energization in on direction, the magnetic flux of he coil and armature and retrait the bolt unlocking the door. upon de-dnergination of the solenoid coil the magnet holds the armature and bot in the unlocked position

Posted on Oct 29, 2012

  • Imtiakum pongen Oct 29, 2012

    An eleltrically operated actuator mechanism for remote locking and unlocking of a door. The movable bolt is coupled to a solenoid armature for movement in a guide which is registered against the door in the closed position. Thd solenoid coil bobbin is stationary and the pole frame including a magnet,bolt guide and bolt are slidable theron for locating the bolt guide against the door at installation. A spring biases the bolt into engagement with the door upon coil angagement with the door. upon coil energization in on direction, the magnetic flux of he coil and armature and retrait the bolt unlocking the door. upon de-dnergination of the solenoid coil the magnet holds the armature and bot in the unlocked position

  • leonard kimble Jan 01, 2013

    Thank you for your help. I was able to take care of the problem. It works like you said, and now the oven is working perfectly. Again thank you so much.

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My oven gets warm but will not reach set temperature. Is this the element


Hello Peter;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

I recently repaired a oven that would be off as much as 200 degrees. The normal operation of your oven is to rise 20-40 degrees above set temperature and shut down until it drops 20-40 degrees below set temperature, turns back on and repeats the cycle again.

Generally, there are only three components that control your oven temperature:

1.) The Heating Element - If you are getting heat your heating element may be good. To be on the safe side inspect the two connections on the back wall to ensure they are not corroded.

2.) The Thermocouple - There are several different thermocouples depending on your model and if your have gas or electric. These are easily replaced.

3.) Oven Control - Here again there are several different controls, both mechanical or digital.

I just purchased a oven thermocouple and a reconditioned digital control over the internet for under $75.00.

IF YOU HAVE A DITIGAL CONTROL - GROUND YOURSELF BY TOUCHING BARE METAL. STATIC ELECTRICITY WILL KNOCK OUT A BOARD.

So, go into the following website put in your model number and select parts. Several diagrams with part numbers will appear. Your model number is on a metal plate on the face of your oven after you open the door.
Fine your thermocouple and oven control. Copy these part numbers and search the internet for best price.
First, replace the thermocouple. If this solves your problem then return the control for credit if not install the oven control. The highest probably is you have a bad thermocouple

Water Filters Lawn Garden Appliance Parts

May 07, 2015 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven starts and stops


The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

Apr 02, 2014 | Kenmore Ovens

2 Answers

No gas flow to oven, glow bar ignites no flame no smell of gas. safety gas safety valve was replaced


With the glow bar going and no gas smell that means you have a good circuit from control to valve and glow bar. For that glow bar to work it must change in resistance. If it is weak it won't change enough resistance to make the gas valve bi-metal open. Also the gas safety valve does not come preset and usually is bottomed out all the way for propane. You must adjust the orifice to aprox the same height as the old one to get the propah gas output for natural gas.


themobilian_2603.jpg
if your old valve did not leak and has continuity between the terminals it is fine. The ignitor/glowbar is weak. If it is dim orange that is usually a way to tell. Bumping the stove makes the bi-metal come on also is a sign of a weak glowbar
themobilian_2604.jpg

Jul 14, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

1 Answer

The broiler and the burners all light but the oven doesn't.


If the glowbar is light up then you have a circuit and all components are working. So Houston why don't we have ignition? Today's new fangled ovens use silicone carbide ignition. The oven safety valve has a bi-metal inside it. In order for it to open and allow gas to flow the resistance in the circuit must change. As that glowbar heats up it changes the resistance in the circuit. If it can pull 3.5 amps or better then that bi-metal will open allow gas to hit the burner. That is yall's built in safety feature. If a glowbar looks real dim and takes a while to come on if at all then it is weak. Whirlpool also has another type of oven that uses a safety valve with a thermocouple attached to it. A pilot light is on all the time on these and no power is needed to operate this stove. Over time the thermocouples cooper-nickel tip will wear out and won't hold the oven safety valve open. Other variations of this is a standby pilot and electronic spark pilot and a flame switch added onto a safety valve. Newer models use a computer board along with AC power to fire the igniters and DC power to open the distribution valve. Your broiler is working so I am sure your stove ain't got the DSI ignition system and you have not mentioned anything about a pilot light so I am assuming you simply have a weak glowbar.
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Oven codes and other stuff HERE

themobilian_1258.jpg

Feb 02, 2011 | Whirlpool Ovens

2 Answers

I am trying to replace a simmerstat in an old hotpoint cooker and have been supplied with an EGO 50 52076 070 as a universal replacement. The old simmerstat has terminals 'live' 'neutral' and 'load' - how...


I bought some of these simmerstats to refurb an industrial machine and faced the same issues - which terminals do what?
The parts came with a confusing wiring diagram, the terminal numbers didn't match.
The good news is that you can easily get inside this unit to see how it works without damaging it.
Release the metal front plate by gently lifting the tangs with a screwdriver then undrneath is a plastic shield which isn't glued in or anything, it just pulls out.
Here's what I found:
The bi-metal heater is connected between 2 and 4.
The bi-metal switch is between P1 and 2.
There is an auxiliary switch between 4 and P2 (P2 is the same metal strip as PILOT).
The auxiliary switch is closed when the control is 'not off'.
I also noted the short metal stub near 'TOP', in line with 2.
It is in fact the same metal strip as 2 so should be treated with respect i.e. it has mains voltage on it.
For my application, I wired:
Live in to P1
Neutral in to 4
Load powered from 2, returning to Neutral
Pilot Light from P1 to P2 (observe that the pilot wiring is a bit scary because it has a switched neutral).

Dec 22, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Hotpoint oven thermostat replaced again a few months ago now oven working but thermostat bulb not. Can this be replaced and how ? Thanks


Depending on which thermostat you are talking about , the main oven thermostat is complete with with sensing bulb, so is replaced as a complete unit.
The other stats, including over heating stat, and cooling fan stat do not have a sensing bulb, they are a bi-metal device, and can be replaced individually.

Nov 14, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Older Maytag built in oven. starts and reaches desired temp, sometimes. Other times it never lites. electric igniter always reaches a glow


Even if the igniter glows... that doesn"t mean the ignitor is good. The igniter is wired in series with the oven bi-metal valve. Many times the ignitor will not allow the correct current to the oven valve for it to open... even though it is glowing. I would recommend replacing the ignitor first, you should be able to find one for under 40 dollars.

Aug 10, 2010 | Maytag Ovens

2 Answers

My whirlpool super capacity 465 oven won't kick on. How and where do I check for the pilot?


pilot is under the bottom panel and usually not bad to get to

Feb 24, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven does not reach set temp


What are using to measure temp ? Are you using a grocery store bi-metal or professional thermal probe ? and further to that, how long are you waiting to check temp. after range "beeps" or announces preheat complete ? The bi-metal type thermometers do take several minutes longer to reach actual temp as opposed to the ranges temp. probe. Does this unit have the "hidden" bake element ? That sounds like a huge temp difference. These units do require an additional 10mins of wait time after announcing ("BEEP") the preheat is complete (check your manual, it should confirm this) Elements don't go "bad" it either comes on (amp draw) or it doesn't.

hope this helps.

good luck

Sep 26, 2009 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

Viking professional gas range isn't heating properly


The ignitor must glow brightly, if it is dim it is probably too weak to open the bi-metal safety valve. Take a LOOK

Jul 17, 2009 | Ovens

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