Question about Whirlpool Duet Steam WFW9700V Front Load Washer / Dryer
YOU NEED TO CLEAN THE VENT ON YOUR HOUSE IF THE BLOWER WHEEL IS BAD ON THE DRYER YOU WOULD HERE THE NOISE AFTER THE DRY STOPS THE BLOWER WHEEL WILL STILL TURN AND MAKE A NOISE
Posted on Nov 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The sensors are two metal strips inside the drum. They are on the right side just behind the filter. They are silver colored and have a slight curve to them. You cannot see them unless you put your head inside the drum. I clean my sensors with a non metal pot cleaner like 3M Scotch Brite. These sensors also fail if you dry silicon backed carpets.
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool duet dryer
The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.
Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.
If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.
A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again.
The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.
Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or change.
To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multitestester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.
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Hope this may help you;
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Posted on Sep 09, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer Not drying well
Check first: That the lint filter is clean. That the duct from the dryer to the outside of the house is clean. In case it will not solve your problem,it might be an heating element issue (partially burned). The dryer will still heat but at such a low temp, that you will need for extra time to get things dry. Open the rear panel, look for the heating element and check visually that there is no burned parts on it (disconnected coils). If there are a burned signs on it, you should replace it. Good luck !!
Posted on Jun 16, 2006
If it is a gas dryer. Sounds like thermal fuse. It costs about $12.95. Most appliance part stores carry it all the time. Very easy to replace. Also can be ignition switch (also cheap). If you know someone who is mechancally inclined, after removing fuse,they can run an electrical jumper cord to the two open ends. If the dryer begins drying, then it is definitely the fuse.
Go to Whirpool site and get part number and diagram to fix. Maytag repair can help at a costly figure after they order part since Whirpool bought Maytag.
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
You have this listed under "Front Load Washer" and don't explain which type of of dryer you have (Gas or Electric). I'm assuming this is an ELECTRIC dryer, since you mentioned a thermistor. The following link will explain how to troubleshoot your dryer no heat problem:
The symptoms of a dryer no heat problem are, the dryer drum will still spin, the blower fan runs, and all indicators function, but the dryer does no heat. If this is the problem you are encountering, then the link I provided for you should help you find your cause.
The first step to troubleshooting this problem is to check the voltage at the wall receptacle across the two hot leads (the two large slots in the receptacle - each leg to neutral reads 110-120VAC). A reading across the two hot leads should yield 220-224 VAC. If the voltage is incorrect, this can cause the heating circuits to fail, but allow everything else to work. I have seen where one leg of the 220VAC circuit is tripped or not working at all and causes the wall receptacle to read 1/2 the normal voltage that is required. This could be a problem with the circuit breaker panel or wiring in the wall receptacle. The heating circuits require 220VAC to operate, while the controls and drive motor only use 110-120VAC. If the voltage is correct at the wall, check the voltage at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord attaches. If the voltage is correct at the terminal block, the problem is in the heating circuits. If the voltage is not correct at the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.
NOTE: Please ensure you UNPLUG the dryer when replacing any internal components. Dangerous voltages are still present with the unit turned off.
Now...what controls the heating circuit in a Whirlpool manufactured dryer is the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), the Hi-Limit Thermostat and the Heating Element. I'm assuming you replaced the TCO(?). If you did, it is recommended that you replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of components you may have already replaced.
The link I provided explains all this. Please read through the information I provided and let me know if you have questions. If you require further assistance, please let me know before you rate the solution. I hope this helps you resolve your problem.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
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If you are having problems with your
gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor
goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working
you dryer is gas check out this gas
If you have an electric dryer, you can
have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to
out this electric
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