Question about Electrical Supplies
Fires good but won't stay running. Cleaned Carb & spark plug. New filters also..
You still have trash/debris in your circuits of the carb or other carb problems...here is a few things to check also and a few hints
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Oct 29, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most gasoline engines need three basic things to run: proper air/fuel mixture, sufficient compression, and a properly timed spark. Check the easiest, cheapest things first, then check the "Gee, I forgot to turn on the gas" kind of things next, then work your way onwards from there.
Compression can be guesstimated with the proverbial thumb-over-the-empty-spark-plug-hole routine as you turn it over casually to check compression. If it doesn't blow your thumb out of position, you could have a hole in the piston (overheating response) or a stuck or damaged intake or exhaust valve.
Check for fuel flow by carefully disconnecting the fuel line to the carburetor and letting some run into a tin can (no styrofoam coffee cups, please). It should dribble freely. If not, you have to back-track the line and find out where the blockage is.
Spark is one that sounds like you've already tested (spark plug out of the cylinder head, hooked up and laying on the metal engine as you turn it over?) so check timing. You will probably need a manual for this test, although a good estimate is that the plug should fire just a wee bit before Top Dead Center position of the piston. Like I said, a manual comes in handy here.
From what you've mentioned, though, I'd start trouble-shooting at the fuel flow part first.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
Either the intake valve is not sealing like it should, or the rings are worn, and crankcase vent is dumping the pressure into the carburetor.
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
if it's flooding the float may have a tiny hole which makes it not float as well and too much fuel will stall the engine...If it's not getting enough fuel to keep running then its usually because of a small piece of dirt blocking a hole..under the carb there should be a brass bolt...take that off and check that the two side holes are clear...then check the center orifice and blow it out...there is also a tiny little hole up near where the threads start...use a wire from a wire brush to make sure its clean....also clean out the bowl and then reassemble...this works 90% of the time for me
Posted on Jul 02, 2010
if you are running the engine at full CHOKE, then it is flooding the engine, but if you meant off full choke, then the carb is still stopped up. Try soaking in carb cleaner overnight after removing jet & all rubber goods. HOPE THIS HELPS.
Posted on Jan 17, 2011
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