Dont wast any more time, blade has been damaged by a hard knock or heat! buy a new blade and check shaft allighnment! (some blades need a spacer if not genuine or will wobble and some blades are **** for no reason- even pricey ones) good luck
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Re: table saw blade wabbles alot when cutting?
This could be caused by several problems. First unplug the saw. Put a known straight edge against the blade (making sure not to contact the teeth) turn the blade slowly and watch for runout. Second make sure the spacers and blade flanges are on correctly. I would just about think it would be the blade. If you provide the model and brand I can do some more research. Good Luck
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The most important thing is that the blade and riving knife are centered with each other. If not, you may have to shim the riving knife.
The bolts that hold the carriage under the table are intentionally sloppy so that you can loosen them and align the blade/knife with the miter gauge slots.
Lay a long metal straight edge against the side of a carbide blade teeth with the blade all the way up, and make sure the straight edge is parallel with the miter gauge slots in the table. Then tighten the bolts on the underside.
Are you referring to the table top or rip fence alignment? The blade itself is not aligned. We adjust the table to parallel with blade and the rip fence should toe away from blade 0.01mm over the length of the rip fence to prevent binding.
If I understood correctly, you started using your husband's table saw and while ripping boards, you managed to stall out the blade AND motor?! If that's the case, you probably have a very dull blade and are binding your board on the blade. Neither is safe and it sounds like trouble is brewing.
First and foremost, get someone to show you how to safely and properly use and adjust the saw if you are new to wood working and power tools. That saw is capable of turning your lumber into a high speed missal if you do things improperly.
It also sounds like you tried installing a new 10" saw blade. Changing the blade requires 2 wrenches. One to hold the arbor and one to tighten the nut. The blade itself should rest on the arbor between two large washers. Also make sure you install the blade so the front face of the cutter teeth face you and rotate toward you. Make sure the saw is unplugged when changing the blade and never turn on your saw with a loose blade.
Sounds to me like the arbor bearings have too much play, or one of them has failed. With the saw unplugged, see how much play there is in the blade by pushing it side to side and up and down. Remove the blade and grab the arbor with your hand and see if you can move it any direction. You should have virtually zero play. If that is the problem, major disassembly is required. If you have a pair of reasonably precise calipers and you get the bearing removed, there are several bearing distributors with good websites to find replacements pretty cheap. If only one bearing is bad you should replace both anyway. Good luck!
It is doubtful that the fence is concave but this can be checked with a straight-edge. More likely this is caused by the blade having hit a nail on one side and the teeth on that side of the blade are damaged. Hope this helps you.
TO REPLACeTHE BLADE
See Figures 43 - 45.
Unplug the saw.
Lower the saw blade, raise the blade guard, and remove the throat plate.
Make sure the bevel locking lever is securely pushed to the left. Raise the saw blade to its full height by turning the height/bevel adjusting handwheel clockwise.
Using the smaller hex wrench, insert the flat open end into the flats on the arbor shaft.
Insert the closed end of the larger hex wrench over the hex nut. Holding both wrenches firmly, pull the larger wrench forward to the front of the machine. Make sure the blade nut is securely tightened. Do not overtighten.
Check all clearances for free blade rotation. See To Set the Scale to the Blade. In cutting operations, the scale will be set to the side of the blade where the cut will be measured and made.
To replace the blade with an accessory blade, follow the instructions provided with the accessory.
To install a standard blade:
Place the new blade on the arbor shaft (the teeth must point down toward the front of the saw to work properly).
Place the blade washer and the blade nut over the blade arbor. Be sure the dome side of the blade washer faces out from the blade and that all items are snug against the arbor housing. Tighten securely.
Rotate the blade by hand to make sure it turns freely.
Lower the saw blade and reinstall the throat plate.
NOTE: Securely tighten throat plate screws. Do not allow the throat plate to bow up above the table surface.
It all depends on how much patience you have. It will cut ok, if you feed slowly and use a rip blade to rip with instead of a combination blade. (Buy one with only 36 teeth or 40 teeth). A sharp blade is always a lot easier and safer to use than that old rusty thing that is trying to grind its way through a piece of 2X. Another tip you might try is to put a coat of paste wax on the blade before you start. It will help if there's a lot of pitch building up as you cut.
Otherwise, more hp will be less likely to bog down and overheat, and will allow you to push through denser and harder woods without the danger of overpowering the motor. But even then, a sharp rip blade is a wonder and a joy to use!