Table saw blade wabbles alot when cutting?

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DW74510" COMPACT JOB SITE TABLE SAW WITH SITE-PRO MODULAR GUARDING SYSTEM
4.6
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WRITE A REVIEW PRINTThe DW745 10" Compact Job Site Table Saw with Site-Pro Modular Guarding System features tool-free guarding component adjustments and fast, accurate fence adjustments. 20" of rip capacity to handle large materials. Compact and lightweight with a metal roll cage for jobsite durability.
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IMPORTANT LINKS

• FEATURES & SPECS
• WARRANTY
• RELATED PRODUCTS
• FAQS
• USER REVIEWS

FEATURES & SPECS

FEATURES

• Site-Pro Modular Guarding System allows for tool free adjustments of the guarding components appropriate for each application
• 20" of rip easily cuts a variety of larger shelving and trim materials
• Rack and pinion fence rails make fence adjustments fast, smooth, and accurate
• Telescoping fence rails retract to create a small, portable package
• On-board storage provides easy access to the Site-Pro guarding components and push stick when not in use
• Metal roll cage base offers greater durability than plastic bases
• Shoe bevels 0° to 45° for beveled cuts
• Weighing only 45 lbs, the DW745 can easily be moved on and off the job
• Adjustable rear feet designed to level the saw on uneven work surfaces
• Dust port allows for 2-1/2" vacuum hook up and minimizes clean up
• 24T carbide blade enhances cut quality and prolongs blade life
• Table coating reduces friction for smoother cutting

SPECIFICATIONS

• AMPS 15.0 AMPS
• ARBOR SIZE 5/8 IN
• BLADE DIAMETER 10"
• DEPTH OF CUT AT 45° 2-1/4 IN
• DEPTH OF CUT AT 90° 3-1/8 IN
• DUST PORT DIAMETER 2-1/2 IN
• MAX RIP TO LEFT OF BLADE 12 IN
• MAX RIP TO RIGHT OF BLADE 20 IN
• MAX WIDTH OF DADO N/A IN
• NO LOAD SPEED 3,850 RPM
• POWER TOOL TYPE CORDED
• TOOL WEIGHT 45 LBS

INCLUDES

• Miter Gauge
• Push stick
• 10" 24T Carbide Blade
• Blade Guard

WARRANTY & SERVICE INFORMATION INSTRUCTION MANUAL LOOKING FOR SERVICE? EXPLORE PRODUCTSACCESSORIES

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• ACCESSORIES

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LARGE DIAMETER PRECISION SAW BLADES

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LARGE DIAMETER CONSTRUCTION SAW BLADES

The most important thing is that the blade and riving knife are centered with each other. If not, you may have to shim the riving knife.

The bolts that hold the carriage under the table are intentionally sloppy so that you can loosen them and align the blade/knife with the miter gauge slots.
Lay a long metal straight edge against the side of a carbide blade teeth with the blade all the way up, and make sure the straight edge is parallel with the miter gauge slots in the table. Then tighten the bolts on the underside.

Are you using a rip blade. Maybe slowing down the cut will help.

If I understood correctly, you started using your husband's table saw and while ripping boards, you managed to stall out the blade AND motor?! If that's the case, you probably have a very dull blade and are binding your board on the blade. Neither is safe and it sounds like trouble is brewing.

First and foremost, get someone to show you how to safely and properly use and adjust the saw if you are new to wood working and power tools. That saw is capable of turning your lumber into a high speed missal if you do things improperly.

It also sounds like you tried installing a new 10" saw blade. Changing the blade requires 2 wrenches. One to hold the arbor and one to tighten the nut. The blade itself should rest on the arbor between two large washers. Also make sure you install the blade so the front face of the cutter teeth face you and rotate toward you. Make sure the saw is unplugged when changing the blade and never turn on your saw with a loose blade.

Sounds to me like the arbor bearings have too much play, or one of them has failed. With the saw unplugged, see how much play there is in the blade by pushing it side to side and up and down. Remove the blade and grab the arbor with your hand and see if you can move it any direction. You should have virtually zero play. If that is the problem, major disassembly is required. If you have a pair of reasonably precise calipers and you get the bearing removed, there are several bearing distributors with good websites to find replacements pretty cheap. If only one bearing is bad you should replace both anyway. Good luck!

Sounds like it but does it have a capacitor (start/run)--what model/type motor is it? and go from there.

Your adjustment should be done on the rip fence which will align it to the blade for strait non binding cuts.

Adjustments
LARGEHEXWRENCH
TO REPLACeTHE BLADE
See Figures 43 - 45.
 Unplug the saw.
 Lower the saw blade, raise the blade guard, and remove the throat plate.
 Make sure the bevel locking lever is securely pushed to the left. Raise the saw blade to its full height by turning the height/bevel adjusting handwheel clockwise.
 Using the smaller hex wrench, insert the flat open end into the flats on the arbor shaft.
 Insert the closed end of the larger hex wrench over the hex nut. Holding both wrenches firmly, pull the larger wrench forward to the front of the machine. Make sure the blade nut is securely tightened. Do not overtighten.
Check all clearances for free blade rotation. See To Set the Scale to the Blade. In cutting operations, the scale will be set to the side of the blade where the cut will be measured and made.
To replace the blade with an accessory blade, follow the instructions provided with the accessory.
To install a standard blade:
 Place the new blade on the arbor shaft (the teeth must point down toward the front of the saw to work properly).
 Place the blade washer and the blade nut over the blade arbor. Be sure the dome side of the blade washer faces out from the blade and that all items are snug against the arbor housing. Tighten securely.
SMALLHEXWRENCH
Fig. 43
Blade
Bladewasher
arbor shaft
Bladenut
Fig. 44
BLADEGUARD
THROATPLATE
spreader
BLADE
Fig. 4535
ADJUSTMENTS
 Rotate the blade by hand to make sure it turns freely.
 Lower the saw blade and reinstall the throat plate.
NOTE: Securely tighten throat plate screws. Do not allow the throat plate to bow up above the table surface.

when i use my table saw, i use clamps on the fence, i dont rely on the one built in.

There are two common blades: Eight-Inch Table Saws are a good choice for crafts and other applications associated with thinner stock.Ten-Inch Table Saws provide the extra cutting depth needed for angled cuts in thicker stock.