I just had a repair man out who said that my evaportator coil and heat exchanger needed to be replaced due to a crack in the line. He said it would cost over $600.00-does this sound high to you? I paid over $1,200 for the unit just 2 years ago. Also, this is the second time I have had it serviced. The first time they added freon.
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Re: Uline 2075WCS not cooling
Hi!! I'm a uline authorize servicer and yes the repair man is right. you have a leak in the evaporator..remember make sure to call uline ans see if you have warranty on your seal system of the wine cooler..good luck..
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First thing I do, especially if the furnace is an older one, is to light a match or long end lighter(like for BBQ pits), hold it inside the opening on the front of the furnace heat exchanger, where you would normally see the burner flames, then turn on the fan only. If you see the "flame dance/flame disturbance", then that furnace may be unsafe due to a cracked heat exchanger. Holes or cracks in heat exchanger will blow out the pilot by allowing the air that we breathe to enter the heat exchanger and mix with the combustion process. AND may cause carbon monoxide poisoning. In that scenario, I would call in a professional. Now if it's not a heat exchanger issue, the flue pipe may have a back draft issue. Again, call a professional! Play it safe with that issue. Hope this helps!
What are some of the best lines that unscrupulous techs and companies use to get you to buy a new furnace or air conditioning system from them. I will give you a heads up on some of the best lines that I have come across.
“Your heat exchanger is cracked.” This line will scare many people and unfortunately I have seen it used on the elderly often. These are some of the most vulnerable of society and how would they know if a supposedly knowledgeable individual told them that they could die because of their heating unit.
“You’re A/C or Heat pump unit needs to be topped off with Freon because it is low.” Heat pump or A/C units do not “use” refrigerant! If they are low then there IS a leak, make them find it so they cannot come back and charge you every year for more.
“Your Freon is bad and must be changed.” Hogwash!! Freon never goes bad if it is in a system that is sealed and tight. Moisture and contamination from a burnt compressor are the enemies of Freon.
“Your Compressor is failing and not pumping right.”Most compressors will last for many years. Ten to 20 years or more is not uncommon, unless you live in a well to do neighborhood…. It is funny how the lower income guys get the low Freon line and the higher income people get the compressor line.
“Replace your air filter every thirty days” If you are a normal person with normal air filters and one or two pets, then you will be just fine changing your air filter twice a year with heating only and 4 times a year with heating and A/C. The exception may be if you are using a very expensive ultra high efficiency air filter. If you want that kind of filtration then make sure you install one of the 4 or 5 inch deep filters that can handle a ton of dirt before they plug up.
“Your Thermostat is bad and that caused the problems you are having with your unit.” Yeah right….just another way to con you into spending more money!!! Make sure that you try the unit with the new parts and see how it operates before also changing the thermostat.
And the last one…”The company that installed your system has to be the one to work on your system.” If you are having trouble with your system, then why do you want the ones that screwed it up in the first place to continue the saga??There is no person with a corner on all the knowledge in the HVAC industry. It is very easy for someone else to work on a system that they did not install. Well, if it was installed even remotely as it should have been…. I have seen some systems that have had me scratching my head wondering what on earth the guy was doing!!!No wonder it did not work!
Bottom line… do not be to quick to believe everything that comes from a service technician. Many companies pay a commission to service techs for sales made from their referrals. What is wrong with that picture?I rest my case.
Check the air handler for low airflow. If you have a dirty filter (you do change it, right?) it will cause the cooling coil to freeze solid. If you do not have a filter installed, the coil itself is probably clogged with dirt and ice - resulting in the same low airflow thru the coil. Replace the dirty filter and you should be all set. If the coil is dirty, you'll need to have it cleaned and a new filter installed.
The coil on the outdoor condenser needs to be clear of dirt and plants, too. The fan should spin freely while powered off, and run smoothly and quietly when powered on. Low airflow here (due to either dirt, blocked air flow or faulty fan will prevent efficient heat exchanging with the outside air.
The heat exchanger must be free of cracks and holes due to the potential of carbon monoxide leakage. You can probably make a short term repair with sheet metal and high heat furnace refractory cement, but that is a quick fix only.
Please be aware of the potential for a lethal situation due to carbon monoxide poisoning.
If the cooling is OK specially in the freezer and the fridge, then you need not have to worry on much. If there is no cooling then the unit must be checked for failure in the sealed unit.
However you can select a NORMAL thermostat setting for the fridge /.freezer , set it lower than the present settings. Also check and see if the unit had the panels removed, if so the insulation of the heat exchange coils could have come off and it might be heating the side metal wall of the fridge.
The heating of the coil is quite normal as due to the heat exchange needed for the cooling.
Are you saying you lose the pilot flame or the main burner flame? A cracked heat exchanger will cause a "venturi effect" when the blower cycles on. This effect will cause blower to interfere with combustion air and **** out the pilot, and cause lifting of the main burner flames (also add oxygen to the flames changing their color).
Some of your newer style furnaces will kick the hi limit when they have a crack in the exchanger dropping the flame and bringing the blower on.
If you are pretty confident of a crack I would suggest a water test.....After the furnace has cooled. determine which way will most easily access the heat exchanger through the top (under the a-coil) from the "plenium". or from below by removing the blower with it's housing.
once you have determined your approach get a bug sprayer and put water in it. With the heat exchanger cool, use the wand of the sprayer to liberally spray the top of the exchanger. If there is a crack the water will find its way into it. Take a flashlight and look into the bottom of each burner slot, if you see water, you have a crack, shut it down and replace it.
Yes it is well worth replacing. You can go to autozone.com and register for full free online repair manual and diagrams and instructions on how to replace the heat exchanger. It is well worth replacing.