Hi I have a second hand Miele Dryer model T4450 (i think). It has been working fine, however after being on for a long time last night the clothes were still damp and the cycle stopped on cool down and didnt finish. Inside the dryer had quite a bit of water droplets. I emptied the water container and put the machine on. upon doing so it tripped the saftey switch and kept doing so on each drying cycle except the 15min cool down cycle. It also worked for a little while when the cooler temperature button was on, however after a while this too tripped the switch. I have used the machine aprox 10 times prior to this without incident. Any suggestions as to what is causing it to trip our electricity saftey switch?
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If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check outthis electric no heat tip...
Mostly likely cause is the heater element part no. 6138580. To ensure this does not happened again 1. Ensure appliance is situated in a cool room with ventilation (If room to hot it will not condense)
2. Ensure metal heat exchanger at bottom of appliance is rinsed regularly both long way and width ways.
Things that will cause a dryer to just up and stop are:
1. Door switch
2. Motor Switch
3. Belt switch
The first thing to check is the door...
a. Verify the door remains closed and that if you gently tug on the door that it does NOT make the door switch click. Things like the switch actuation post get worn and clothes being dried press against the door and can cause the dryer to stop.
The second thing to check is the drum.
a. Reach inside the dryer and push the drum in either direction. If it moves easily with little resistance (Belt not turning the motor as drum is moved) then the belt has broken and the belt saftey switch has been activated causing the dryer to appear dead in all aspects.
The last thing that can cause it to just stop is a failure of the motor or motor switch. (Least suspects at this time)
Also go to the main Circuit breaker panel and physically turn off the dryer 30A Circuit breakers by pushing them against the off position and then back to the on position. This resets the breaker completely
You did not mention the age of this Dryer yet at this time I suspect a broken belt has tripped the belt safety switch.
We were drying pillows and the thermal elements tripped. I took the panel off of the back of the dryer. The screwdriver uses a hex head (Lee Valley Tools). There are 3 thermal switches. Pushing the button at the center of each switch resets the unit. Our Miele is now running again which saves me a $200 service call.
have the neutral power connection on that circuit and back to the main house panel and then have the neutral connection checked at the power companies side also, it sounds like you have a high resistance neutral connection somewhere in the circuit and its looking for another return path due to the high resistance on the line to another feed circuit line to make connection
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a
tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for
power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in. Sometimes
the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the
case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or
2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the
door switch if found defective.
Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a
dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door
switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and
the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.
Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch
assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there
is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and
just the lever.
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.