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If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
First, this machine has an electronic motor. Check to see if belt is broken. If not then unplug for 2 minutes, plug back in and open and close lid 7 times slowly. This will reset motor. A common problem with this machine. I dont think it is the magnetic lid switch.
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Hi, check to see that the small hose going from the outer tank up to the pressure switch in the console is connected on both ends and intact with holes or leaks. If so, you could have lint or other debris in the pressure bell on the outer tank OR you could have a bad pressure switch. I can assist further if needed.
1st thing to check is the lid switch in the right front corner. It is magnetic and keeps the motor from running when the lid is up. If it goes bad----no run. Next would be the motor itself or the main control board. Either is expensive. Sometimes the motor goes into a lock out mode and can sometimes be reset. The procedure is in the wiring diagram inside the control panel on top.
It is usually within the lock mechanism, try putting a small bar or something That look like the bar of door latch thru female mechanism, It should start when activated ( stop It when it´s filling up before There is enough water, you should not get swamp... )
Unplug the electric power cord. Disconnect the hoses and pull out the drain hose. Move the washer to a convenient location where you can work on the front and the back of it No washer will spin when the lid is up. If the lid is down and it still wont spin, the first thing to check is the lid switch. If it's bad, the washer will think the lid is up all the time. You'll need to remove the front panel of the washer to see it.
Find the clips that hold the front of the washer on. They are on the front, about 3 inches from the sides. If you shine a light into the crack, you will be able to see these clips.
Insert a putty knife, pressing on the clips to release them. Then remove the front panel. Find the lid switch. Mine was on the right side. Make a note of the color of the wires that go to the lid switch. Remove the back panel at the top of the washer where the timer and other controls are located. I needed a nut driver and a torx screwdriver. Inside the back of the head unit, find the wires that come from the lid switch. Disconnect the white plug the wires go into. Attach a volt meter to the end of the plug that comes from the lid switch. Set the meter to measure resistance or continuity. This means when the wires of the volt meter are touched together it beeps or shows a value of zero. Open and close the lid. If the readout on the meter doesn't change at all, then the lid switch is faulty. Replace it and the washer will now spin. If the lid switch is OK, go on to the next step. Washers pump out all the water first, and then start spinning. If the water level switch is bad, the washer will think there is still water in the tub and refuse to spin. From the front of the washer, locate the clear plastic hose on the left side. This goes to the water level switch. Disconnect the hose by pulling upwards. Clean any junk out of the hose. On my washer, this clear plastic tube had some lint in it. By sucking on the tube at the front of the washer, I was able to remove it and the washer then worked perfectly. If this doesn't work for you, continue to the next step. From the back of the washer, locate the water level switch on the right side. Disconnect the plug and attach your volt meter to the wires that come from the switch. Blow into the end of the hose you disconnected at the front of the washer and see if the meter changes. You should hear a clicking sound as you repeatedly blow into the tube. If the meter doesn't change at all, then the water level switch is bad. Replace it and you washer should spin correctly. If you are certain the lid and water level switches are OK, and the water level tube is not clogged. Then the problem is either the clutch or the motor
I don't know if this washer is very similar to a model wpre6150k2wt. My girlfriend had this very problem happen to her with her washer that is this model. The solution was very easy, I just unscrewed and took out the fabric softener dispenser. Doing this gave me access to a bolt that attaches the agitator to the gear that turns it. I then just unscrewed the bolt and removed the agitator. I hope this helps. Again if your washer is similar to ours it should.
I would check the lid switch. On many machines there is no motion at all if the lid is up. If the switch is bad it may not realize the lid is down and nothing will happen after the machine fills. You can try a web search for how to test or replace the lid switch for your specific model. There are also several appliance repair sites with how-to procedures as well as parts. It's not too difficult to change the switch yourself on most washers.