Question about Coleman Electrical Supplies
Bad carb.will not start.
Here are a few things to check
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and cranking the engine or by pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
Take a picture for later reassembly.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Oct 29, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You may know this already but I'll go over how to troubleshoot a small gasoline engine :-)
To run properly these engines need 3 things a) the right fuel/air mixture into the cylinder, b) compression, and c) spark at the right time. As you check out the engine you prove to yourself that each of these things is there.
First, double check the fuel valve and the run/stop switch. I've forgotten this once or twice and wasted time fixing what wasn't broken.
Next pull the starter rope. Do you feel a fair amount of resistance that gets stronger then weaker as the engine turns over? This is also when I listen for any odd noises.
Double check the fuel level in the tank and the amount of oil in the crankcase. Again, we're systematically proving that the darn thing ought to work.
OK, got fuel in the tank, oil in the crankcase, all controls to "go", and it feels like we have compression - that leaves checking it for spark. Take out the spark plug and look at the end of it. If it isn't nice and clean go get a new one. Lay the spark plug against the cylinder head so that you can see the gap at the business end and gently pull the starter rope, you should see a nice bluish spark jump across the gap. You may need a friend to help by pulling the rope while you watch the gap ;-)
This doesn't check that the plug will spark when it's under compression in the cylinder but it proves that the electrical parts of the engine are working.
If there was any sort of spark at all reinstall the plug (use the new one if you found it dirty). Take the air cleaner off of the engine an inspect it, if it's dusty tap it against your hand to knock the dust out of it, if it's oily and/or wet get a new one. Get yourself a can of carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or other handy starting aid and shoot a 1 second blast of it thru the carb intake. You want to get the brake/carb cleaner past the carb and into the intake manifold. Do Not use ether or gasoline for this at penalty of your eyebrows. Close the choke half way and pull the rope, if the engine starts or tries to start and then stops you probably have carb problems, if there is no detonation at all from the cylinder you may have compression or spark problems.
Put a catch pan under the carb, I use a cut down 1 gallon oil container. Using a 13mm wrench loosen the bolt on the bottom of the carb bowl and then remove it by hand. You should see fuel start to come out of the hole where the main jet you just took off was. If you don't see fuel come out gently remove the bowl from the carb, be careful of the oring/gasket between the bowl and the carb body. At this point fuel should be pouring out into the catch basin, if it isn't you have to find out what's blocking the fuel supply. Shut off the fuel valve, many fuel valves have a built in filter in the body of the valve. If you've got one of these you can take the bottom of the valve apart with a 10mm wrench and clean/inspect the screen inside, be carefull of the oring here too.. If the filter is OK, remove the float and needle vale from the carb by pulling out the hinge pin in the float, when you turn the fuel valve back on fuel should pour out into the catch pan, if not you need to remove, check, and possibly replace the fuel line.
If you've got fuel to the carb (fuel poured into the catch pan above), you need to remove, clean, service (lube, inspect) and reinstall the carb. There aren't many adjustments on modern small engine carbs.
Get a spark tester and check that the engine gets spark with the plug installed. If it does not, you have to determine why starting at the run/stop switch. Find the (usually black) wire at the center of the switch and disconnect it. Check for spark again, if you got spark you may have a bad switch. If you didn't get spark you probably have a bad ignition module which is located under the blower housing and above the flywheel.
The only good way to check compression is to use a compression tester. You should see 50 psi or more of compression for the engine to work. If you don't have good compression, especially if you get very low compression check the valves first then the head gasket.
If everything checks, you have fuel, compression, and spark but the engine still won't run. You may have a broken flywheel key. To check that you have to remove the blower housing, the ignition module, and then the flywheel.
Hope this helps narrow down the problem, feel free to ask me directly if you need more help.
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
You may not be able to find the owners manual, but if you search using model / type #s off the engine, you may be able to find the manual for the engine from the manufacturer.
Posted on Jun 12, 2010
Follow this link and then enter your model number. I hope this helps you out.
Posted on Jun 21, 2010
I have a Coleman Powermate 5000 with 10 HP Tecumseh engine. It is very hard to get started. once started runs great . But when you shut it off and try to restart it it will not start.
I have plenty of fire. I also replace the carb.
I still have problems getting it started. I tried to start it with out the filter also. What can i try next?
Thanks for any help
Posted on Jul 27, 2010
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