Question about GE GSL25XGWSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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HOW DO YOU PUT A GE GSL25XGWCSS INTO TEST MODE TO CHECK FOR PROBLEMS?

THE FRIDGE SIDE IS TOO WARM AND THE TEMP FLUCTUATES. THE FLOW OF AIR IS VERY LOW AS A TRICKLE TO THE FEEL BUT THE INTERNAL DAMPER IS WORKING. THE EVAPORATOR FAN IS RUNNING BUT ONLY ON LOW. IT WAS MAKING A SURGING SOUND BETWEEN HIGH AND LOW THE OTHER DAY AND NOW IT IS PERMANENTLY LOW NOW..IT DOES NOT GIVE YOU THE BURST OF COLD AIR INTO YOUR FACE LIKE IT DID BEFORE..I SUSPECT THE THERMOSTATS ARE MALFUNCTIONING AND I HAVE ORDERED THEM ANYWAY BUT I AM CURIOUS TO SEE IF THE MACHINE CAN TELL ME SOMETHING DIFFERENT.. I HAVE SEEN IT POSTED ON PARTSELECT.COM THAT THERE IS A TEST MODE.CAN SOMEONE OFFER SOME ADVICE? THANKS..

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Krames
  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer side cold, frige side warm

Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Frost in frostless freezer, fan not blowing into warm fridge

Hi,
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...

Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.

After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.

There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?

If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!

SG


Posted on Apr 05, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge warm at top cold at bottom

If the fan is no coming on inside the freezer this will need to be fixed soon. Both fans upper and lower must run while compressor runs. Inside the fresh food compartment close the damper on bottom left side next to the paned drawer. If this does not help send more cold air to the top let me know as there could be something else causing the dampers not to open and close properly.
Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on May 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE TFX26KRDA WW 2001 side by side refrig/freezer w warm fridge

Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

SOURCE: GE side by side refrigerator. Fridge side not cooling - help!

Hi, they have changed lots of parts, were they defected, did they tested parts for faults or they just change parts, because it's available, there's always a reason why a certain part, go bad. so far you change most of parts in ref. check refrigerant (gas, freon) pressure, check compressor, for faulty suction and high side valve, it's possible your compressor loosing efficiency. or say if compressor normally pump 50 psi. now it's pumping 40 psi. is the refrigeration cycle balance ? is there restriction in your ref. system? is compressor running long enough? plug on ref. let it run for 1hr, listen to compressor for any clicking sound, fans and everything else could be working, be compressor not, compressor could be short cycling (not working long enough) also check voltage in receptacle(outlet) with digital multi-tester, get accurate voltage reading, let me know, could also be a faulty circuit breaker in house (building) not your ref. let me know, system could have very slow refrigerant leak, you could have a very small (slow) gas leak, that's why your refrigerator get hot first, then your freezer, there's a condensate line (loop) that passes through, ref body, close to doors to prevent door gasket from freezing, after few years sometimes develope leaks, cause by rusting. it's very possible there could be small leak in your system. let me know what happened.good luck.

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

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http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

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