Question about GE GSL25XGWSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
THE FRIDGE SIDE IS TOO WARM AND THE TEMP FLUCTUATES. THE FLOW OF AIR IS VERY LOW AS A TRICKLE TO THE FEEL BUT THE INTERNAL DAMPER IS WORKING. THE EVAPORATOR FAN IS RUNNING BUT ONLY ON LOW. IT WAS MAKING A SURGING SOUND BETWEEN HIGH AND LOW THE OTHER DAY AND NOW IT IS PERMANENTLY LOW NOW..IT DOES NOT GIVE YOU THE BURST OF COLD AIR INTO YOUR FACE LIKE IT DID BEFORE..I SUSPECT THE THERMOSTATS ARE MALFUNCTIONING AND I HAVE ORDERED THEM ANYWAY BUT I AM CURIOUS TO SEE IF THE MACHINE CAN TELL ME SOMETHING DIFFERENT.. I HAVE SEEN IT POSTED ON PARTSELECT.COM THAT THERE IS A TEST MODE.CAN SOMEONE OFFER SOME ADVICE? THANKS..
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
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Posted on Apr 05, 2009
If the fan is no coming on inside the freezer this will need to be fixed soon. Both fans upper and lower must run while compressor runs. Inside the fresh food compartment close the damper on bottom left side next to the paned drawer. If this does not help send more cold air to the top let me know as there could be something else causing the dampers not to open and close properly.
Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on May 29, 2009
Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
Hi, they have changed lots of parts, were they defected, did they tested parts for faults or they just change parts, because it's available, there's always a reason why a certain part, go bad. so far you change most of parts in ref. check refrigerant (gas, freon) pressure, check compressor, for faulty suction and high side valve, it's possible your compressor loosing efficiency. or say if compressor normally pump 50 psi. now it's pumping 40 psi. is the refrigeration cycle balance ? is there restriction in your ref. system? is compressor running long enough? plug on ref. let it run for 1hr, listen to compressor for any clicking sound, fans and everything else could be working, be compressor not, compressor could be short cycling (not working long enough) also check voltage in receptacle(outlet) with digital multi-tester, get accurate voltage reading, let me know, could also be a faulty circuit breaker in house (building) not your ref. let me know, system could have very slow refrigerant leak, you could have a very small (slow) gas leak, that's why your refrigerator get hot first, then your freezer, there's a condensate line (loop) that passes through, ref body, close to doors to prevent door gasket from freezing, after few years sometimes develope leaks, cause by rusting. it's very possible there could be small leak in your system. let me know what happened.good luck.
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
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