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Husky 5000 generator will not start

Husky 5000 generator has fuel and oil but will not start. I positioned the on switches to on and cranked the starter but nothing happens. Is it possible that I overchoked the engine?

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  • Master
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Hi
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and cranking the engine or by pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.

A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
Take a picture for later reassembly.

B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.

Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.

Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.

Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.

If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.

When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me
Bud

Posted on Oct 29, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: checking oil in generator

I found some website help. I have this same problem.

http://www.powermate.com/faq.php?cat_id=3
http://www.powermate.com/faq.php?cat_id=3&faq_id=32

I also found out a lot about the Powermate company via a customer service email reply: This has an elusive customer service number that i have not tried yet.

"
Powermate Corporation is not a part of The Coleman Company, Inc. They have been an independent company for over 10 years and we have no information on their products.

Powermate manufactured generators, pressure washers, air compressors and air powered tools. Information about those products was available from

Powermate Corp.
125 Airport Road
Kearney, NE 68848

Toll Free: 1-800-445-1805 (disconnected)
or 402-758-6303 (disconnected)
Web Page: www.powermate.com

Earlier this year, Powermate transferred the right to sell air compressors and air powered tools to a company by the name of MAT Industries, LLC, 625 Barclay Boulevard, Lincolnshire, IL 60069, 1(800) 628-8815. This company may be able to help you with questions related to air compressors and air powered tools.

In March 2008, Powermate filed for bankruptcy protection. We understand that customer service inquiries to Powermate via emails, mail and telephone calls will not be answered. However, some information about Powermate and its products continues to be available at their website.

If the problem with your unit is with the engine, check the engine manual that came with the unit to determine whether the engine has a separate warranty from the manufacturer. When Coleman was affiliated with Powermate, they did. If so, you can contact the engine manufacturer for a listing of warranty centers in your area. The contact number should be in the engine manual.

If you are needing parts for a powerwasher, please visit the site

http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/coleman-powermate-pressure-washer-parts for assistance.

Thank you,

Harold
Coleman Consumer Service

"



Posted on Sep 02, 2008

Pyrhyc
  • 2028 Answers

SOURCE: coleman powermate 6250 generator will not start

I have one of these generators, and I can tell you that at least once a year, I have to pull the petcock type assembly off tank, and clean it. I also drain and clean the tank. It gets a sediment build up, and the petcock system isn't the greatest in the world. I'm going to say that you either have a problem in the petcock type assembly, or you have a stuck jet in the carb, either of these can happen with it sitting for the long period of time. Start by removing the fuel line to the carb and checking the fuel flow. Sounds like you may have already done this, I'm unclear on that. Then I would remove the carb, and soak it overnight in a penetrating oil. This will loosen up any rust or parts that may be sticking. One other thing you may consider, depending on where you live, you may have a mud dauber or wasp nest in the intake or other critical area of the engine. I still get amazed at where I find mud dauber nests occasionally, the little buggers seem to be able to get anywhere.

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

CarlGehrke
  • 169 Answers

SOURCE: What type of oil for a Coleman 5000 Generator?

You need a quart of regular old SAE 5W30 motor oil with detergent.
The engines on these generators are more or less the same as a lawn mower.
Don't forget to service/change the air cleaner when you change the oil, that should keep your generator producing full power.

Regards,
Carl

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

mamicheddy
  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Generac portable generator 5000 watts, won't start!

I am assuming the generator worked fine before the oil change. Now that you have done the oil change the genset does not start. These generators have a safety switch, which is basically an oil pressure switch that keeps the engine from running when there is not enough oil in the engine. Make sure that there is enough oil and if there is, look for a wire that runs along side of the engine to a round component. disconnect that wire and try starting. If it does not start then try to ground out the wire to the engine block. If this does not work, then there is other engine problems.

Posted on May 08, 2009

  • 384 Answers

SOURCE: 10kw Generac Guardian not cranking, shows rpm sense loss

Sounds like Generator mode switch should be "ON".

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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3 Answers

Mower shut off while mowing and now has no crank or fire


Specific to your situation, since you were mowing when it quit and it no longer cranks, it does not sound like a fuel problem. Neither does it fit with an engine problem like valves, compression, or flywheel key. We can't rule out complications with these areas just yet, but, these are not the areas we want to start with. I will post details for checking the starting system.

If this all checks out, but does not resolve the problem then repost your question with updated details and I will go on to the next phase of diagnostics.

Your specific situation would cause me to check the
Fuse,
PTO switch,
Key Switch
Brake Switch.

Your machine does not have an oil level or oil pressure cutoff.

When I turn the key nothing happens.

There are several elements that go into cranking (turning over) the engine.
Battery
Fuse
Key Switch (and wiring)
Starter Solenoid and wires
Starter motor

To begin with check the fuse. It's a 20amp car style fuse located under the hood near the battery.

If the fuse does not fix the problem let's move on to the battery. The quickest way to make your initial check of the entire starting system and particularly the battery is to get a jump. Yep, get some jumper cables and jump the mower off your car. Turn the key and try to start it in the normal fashion. If it starts cool! It is likely a bad battery.

Charge the battery for a few hours, on a charger. Then perform a voltage measurement of the battery. Switch a volt meter to DC Volts and clip it to the battery. It should read between 12-13 volts. If not the battery is suspect. If it is 12-13 volts see if it will crank, but continue to watch the volts. If they drop below 10ish volts, the battery may have a bad cell.

Now let's check the starting system while bypassing all the safety switches and wiring. How? You can perform this test simply by jumping the starter solenoid. Hold a wrench or fat screwdriver across the two large posts of the starter solenoid. This bypasses the key switch and all safety devices and directly drives the starter. Your starter will crank if the battery and starter are good, the wires and connections are good, and the engine is not locked up. Don't crank it for more that a couple seconds. You just want to verify the battery and the starter are both in good shape. (The engine will crank but not start during this test if the key is off, or if the safety switches or wiring are damaged, or if the safety switches are in the no start/run positions.)

If the starter cranks try one more test. Run a small jumper wire from the positive post of the battery to the little terminal on the solenoid. You may have to take the small wire off the terminal, on the starter solenoid, in order to do this. When you apply this current from the battery to the terminal it should make the solenoid activate and the starter crank. This test bypasses the key switch and shows you the starter system is working. You could do this test first; if it works you do not need to do the basic jump test.

If these tests cause the engine to crank, but it will not crank with the key, then you know you have a problem somewhere in your starter wiring, safety switch system, fuse, or in your Key Switch. Of course you did check the battery terminals for good connection, right?

Most modern riding mowers have the following safety switches:
Seat switch
PTO switch
Reverse switch (RIS)and Reverse Relay(RIO)
Brake/Clutch switch

If you need detailed instruction for testing your wiring and safety system, I will need your complete machine info.
Make
Model
Year
Engine Model
Transmission Model
Deck Size.

On a John Deere (100 series) the starting current flows through the following items in this order:
Battery to Fuse then to the Key Switch.

With key switch in the start position,the current flows from the Key Switch to PTO.

With PTO off, current flows from the PTO to Brake/Clutch

With Brake/Clutch Pedal all the way down, the current flows to the starter solenoid.

If the Starter Solenoid is in good shape, the solenoid connects the battery to the Starter and the engine cranks.

Cranking does not mean running; it just means the engine turns over. Running is dependent on many other systems.

Those components are all part of the cranking/starting system. They can prevent the Starter Motor from cranking when you turn the Key Switch. You can trace the voltage with a multi-meter. Connect the black lead to ground and look for 12 volts on each successive step. If the voltage disappears at one particular step, there is your suspect.

Electrical elements that are NOT part of the starting system:
The RIO is the Reverse Implement Option. It is a switch that latches and stays latched under certain conditions. It is activated by the RIS. The RIS is the Reverse Implement Switch. It activates the RIO. These two separate components work to allow the blades to cut while you are backing up (without killing the engine). They have nothing to do with the starting system.

The Seat and the RIO (the reverse latch not the button) switches are tied into the engine kill system. They provide a ground path for grounding the Coil. This same system controls the fuel shut off valve beneath the carburetor. The Seat and RIO can keep the engine from running but they will not prevent the Starter Motor from cranking. Therefore, if you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem has nothing to do with the Seat and Reverse switches.

Note: With the Key in the RUN position, power flows from the Key Switch to the Hour Meter, then to the RIO latch relay (not the RIS button), then to the fuel shut off solenoid. If you do not hear the Fuel Shut off Solenoid clicking on and off when you turn the Key Switch from off to run, there may be a problem in this circuit; including a possible problem in the Hour Meter. Of course none of this affects the cranking circuit. Your engine will still crank, it just won't run.0c82e2b5-5ccf-4328-9160-a0f7468cc1e1.jpg

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3650 generator won't start!!


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How to fix a genset 6500 generators that stops when you turn starter switch loose?


Check the oil level or any other alarm that can stop it.
The switch may have lost its middle stable position and drop directly to stop.
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