I just installed electric baseboard in my cabin. There is 20ft (1-8', 2-6') of baseboard on 1 electric thermostat in my living/dining room. Each additional room has either 8' or 6' of baseboard with their own electric thermostats. All the zones are fed with their own 20amp breaker and when tested with a meter, they are not overdrawing. The baseboards fins get warm to the touch, but never hot where you cant touch the fins. Can anyone offer suggestions? I want to add, that they are all 240 volt heaters and are all on their own 20amp breakers.
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Re: Electric baseboard heat not getting hot
Is your fuse box and main power source large enough to handle the full load if all are turned on at the same time? Are you uses two pole breakers? you might only be feeding with 110 volt. This would prevent them from getting very hot.
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Electric baseboard heaters heat by radiant heat. This mean the heater is heating the metal of the heater first which causes expansion of the metal. This will cause popping metal sounds becouse it is heating up. When it kicks off, by the thermostat, it starts to cool which causes contraction of metal. This will also cause noise. Most all base board heaters I have installed and worked on does this. Sorry there is little to nothing you can do. :)
Okay couple questions here because either you have hot water baseboards or you have electric baseboard heaters.
- if the system is a hydronic baseboard heater fed form main boiler, usually this means your space heat is controlled by a zone valve which the zone valve is controlled by your thermostat.
-if you find the zone is controlled by a zone valve than it is possible the zone valve is defective causing hot water to bleed past the zone valve even though your t-stat is telling it to close.
- first find out what excatly the baseboard is heated by either water or electricity
-next personal message me and I can walk you through it
I have some confusion about what you are asking......
There is no such thing as "Hydronic Electric Baseboards"......
I am assuming you are referring to the oil filled baseboard heaters. If so....
The same amount of btu's required to heat a space remain the same whether the elements heat a liquid to warm the air or whether they heat the air directly, the same amount of wattage will be consumed. So, their is no more or less efficiency between the two.
If you are referring to "Hydronic Baseboard Heaters" (these baseboards are fed from a boiler with a pump) Then....I will assume that it is a gas boiler. In which case, the gas boiler would be more cost efficient to operate. If it is an electric the same rule applies as above......the cost is the same.
The biggest wasters of electrical energy are Heat and A/c, water heaters,dryers and ranges. The more you insulate the less you have to cool or heat. If you live in a warm climate, consider installing an attic fan that runs on a thermostat or timer. During the summer allow it to run, during winter turn it off. Ceiling fans in rooms that are occupied create the illusion of being cooler, allowing the thermostat to be turned up.I'm not sure of the exact numbers but any thermostat setting on your a/c below 78 is more inefficient so try kicking the a/c up and the heat down. I'm a Florida boy so I can't tell you much about baseboard heaters. I know that anything that heats things up cost a lot in energy.
Consider installing a hot water heater timer. Commonly called a "Little Grey Box". Whenever your water heater is not actually being used it is still heating the water. A big waster. Once installed set the timer to cycle the water heater off during times when you commonly don't use it. Overnight,when your at work etc....
Somewhat antiquated, but a clothesline always uses 100% less energy than a clothes dryer. :) Short of this, try to fill the dryer all the way and make sure your dryer vent and lint trap are clear.
Microwaves draw 1/3 the energy of a range and run for 1/10 of the time. Microwave as many things as you can. In our house we have started microwaving canned veggies and boxed side dishes and such.
These are the big ones I've done at my house. A lot of the other things seemed to be more work than they are worth. Some actually end up costing you more if you don't own the house for decades.
There are many sites you can visit such as your local power company and possibly your local government pages.
Good luck. I'm in the same boat with the high power bill.
measure the room, then multiply the length by the width to get the square feet you want to heat. multiply this by 10 and that is the watts you need to heat the room assuming you are using standard 220/240v baseboards.
I believe you interpretation of the code is a bit skewed in that the fundamental concern is to not route power cords over a heat source which might cause the insulation on that wire to exceed its rated operating temp and fail. The heaters themselves have shrowds over them so there are no exposed surfaces hot enough to melt wire insulation and when you think about it ..2000 watts disipated over a long baseboard section is not that hot. If I were you, I would go ahead and install them and not worry about the warning.. The warning also removes any liability from the heater manufacturer in the event something happens.. Common sense would dictate that you wouldn't intentionally drape power cords all over the heaters... Just use common sense and not worry about it..
I have never heard of altitude effecting the electric. Watts amps and volts are different than burning a gas, like propane. The high altitude has less oxygen thus requiring the combustion to be effected. If your wires are over heating when you use maximum wattage (amps) you need to install larger wire with the correct size breaker. Look up ohms law. Its a basic electrical formula and will help you get this right.