Question about Coleman Powermate Proforce 2500 Generator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
HOW MUCH CAME OUT ALSO ANYTHING UNDER 16 H.P. GENRALLY TAKES TWO QUARTS BUT START WITH 1 1/2 AND CHECK TELL ME THE BRAND OF MOTOR AND HORSE POWER AND I SHOULD BE ABLE TO TELL YOU EXACTLY
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
SOURCE: checking the gas and oil levels?
There isn't really a guage to look at . What one does is to take out the plastic plug on the side of the engine and with the engine cold and level make sure that the oil level comes up to the lowest thread where the plug screws in.
You really should have a manual, so if it's missing look here for which ever "PM" number is printed on the tag on the end of your generator.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
If it's still under warranty take it back to the retailer and tell them it quit working - don't offer any other information.
If you must fix the E/G yourself - On the generator there's a cover on the back; take the cover off so that the back of the windings are exposed. You should see 4 to 6 diodes mounted to the rotor and stator...those diodes are most likely burned out because of temperature failure, due to overload. You have to take them out to isolate them...they should read .6 Ohms one way; reverse the leads and they slhould read about 1.2 Ohms. If there shorted you'll read 0 Ohms and open infinety.
Anyway, replace those diodes and you should re-establish your field winding voltage which develops you A/C output.
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
To what I know about this model - it IS NOT inverter type. Electrical motor works pretty much like car alternator with out reftifier. The ONLY magnet on rotor is a small, 1x2 initiation magnet, that helps to start the induction current. After that, induction current thru rotor is controlled by AVR (automatic voltage regulator) in a way, that output voltage stays at needed level.
The fact that you read 2.0 volts on output - tells you that your initiation magnet is OK. One of few things went wrong, in probability order: winding on rotor, AVR module, winding on stator, brushes woar out.
Take back cover off from electric generator part, use voltmeter to measure continuity on stator (2 or 3 poles, must be within 50 ohnm), continuity of rotor thru brushes ( normally within 100ohm). If broken - have to restore windings. It is DIYable for rotor, but hardly possible for stator. If those are ok - most probably your AVR is dead, you can not test it yourself, so get a new module to try (but try to make arrangements for return, if there it was not the reason).
Just fixed Champion 3500 generator myself, purchased for $50 as broken.
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
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