Question about Raypak Spapak Electric Spa Heater - Els1102 - 2 - 11 Kw
I want to change out a broken H400ID propane fueled pool and spa heater with an electric heater for the spa only. What issues would be involved with changing out this old unit and connections?
Hayward has manuals for each type heater, gas and electric.
Hayward also has contact page, and can probably recommend correct change-over product.
You want to switch from propane to heat-pump type.
There are likely 3 areas of difference. Read each manual and generally look for 1) unit size and capability to match spa 2) pipe connections and sizes 3) Electrical requirement
From electrical standpoint, You need GFCI-protected line from circuit breaker box, or GFCI (arc-fault) breaker. This will prevent electrocution risk around spa.
Wire sizes are based on volts and watt-rating of heater.
Each electrical device has rating plate showing volts and watts.
3500 watts divided by 240 volts = 14.5 amps so install double-pole 20 amp breaker and use 12 gauge wire.
1500 watts divided by 120 volts = 12.5 amps so install sinle-pole 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire.
Posted on Nov 26, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: pool heater wont fire up
Its just after 1 am here as well, Ontario Canada. Yes, you have to remove the front lower panel by raising it then pulling out at the bottom. Then compare the valve you have with the 2 in the picture on pg 5. If it is easier, you can have your husband call me while doing this and I can talk him through it. My contact information is located on the main page of my company website www.emshvac.com
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
My Rapak gas pool heater burner will not ignite. I changed the flame sensor and then the main gas valve (on a recommendation of a heating contracter) and after spending almost $300 on parts, I may have not needed, it still will not ignite. The water temp has been around 80 using the solar cover but now with the air temp in the 50's at night and only in the 70's in the day the water is a brisk 70 degrees. We would like run the heater now, so we can use the pool for a bit longer this fall.
Any ideas? Some people told me there is a valve that senses the proper amount of water is flowing around the boiler so it doesn't burn up, is this possiblely the problem that the valve is not opening?
Joe Snyder, Toledo, Ohio
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
this usually indicates a high limit condition.you must first ascertain if you have a component failure or a true high tempature condition.your model has 2 limit controls and they are both located in side panel on water in/out header
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
For some reason your heater is not recognising the flame when it goes on. The biggest reason for this will be small spider webs in the burner orfaces. These are on the main gas manifold where it connects to the burners. You can get a small wire and bend it to go in these orfaces but the first time you do this it will probally be easer to pull the tray and remove the orfaces from the gas line. Good luck, I hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
Part one - The 'whoosh' or 'boom' at ignition. If those sounds describe your start up your jet(s) are clogged along the gas manifold. Follow the pipe out of the gas valve down to where the gas is shot into the heater. Those bronze ports have a small opening and spiders like to nest inside this area. Turn them out of the manifold and inspect them. You should find those closest to the ignitor are clogged causing the delay and then boom of ignition.
Part 2 - Have this happen enough and the roll out switch / fused link along the bottom of the heaters service panel will open up and disable the heater. It will look like a black rubber tube about 1/4 diameter by about 2 inches long -OR- a white ceramic block about the diameter of a quarter; either will have 2 wires to it and it will be 'close' to the manifold and jets you need to clean out. If you have a way to read resistance across this switch remove the wires from it and check it. If it is open it will need to be replaced.
Posted on Dec 16, 2009
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