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How to test a defrost tstat at room temp

I replaced the defrost heater coil still freezes so how do i test the defrost tstat at disconected at room temp

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  • Refrigerators Master
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Directions for testing a refrigerator defrost thermostat.

Before you begin to test your defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.

  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.


  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.


  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.


  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.


  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.

Posted on Oct 29, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Krazytech
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SOURCE: Samsung fridge RS2545SH every 7 days freezes fridge coil.

no thermostat in this model but there are thermister it is also on the evaporator (yellow wire)

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

peyton32034
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SOURCE: GE TFX27PF refrigerator and freezer still not getting cold enough

the partial frost pattern is an indication of low refrigerant, restriction or bad compressor. if the unit is under 5 years old this repair will probably be under warranty thru GE. if out of warranty then you are looking in most cases between 200-500 dollars for repair. good luck Thanx peyton

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidare refrigerator FRS26ZTH FREEZER FREEZING UP/FRIG NOT COOL

also check defrost timer,defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

Sea Breeze
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SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control

It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

Sea Breeze
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SOURCE: My feezer is not defrosting properly, I ohmed def heater

I noticed that you left the most likely part out. Defrost Timer=> 215846602 Click Here=> FRT17B3AW5 User Manual on page 17 letter E Click Here=> FRT17B3AW5 Wiring Diagram some models had Adaptive Defrost there but I think yours has the defrost timer. If this was helpful please rate me. If need you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, www.pcappliancerepair.com
Thanks, Sea Breeze



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Posted on Mar 21, 2010

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Frigidaire freezer runs a lot. Located in garage. In summer runs almost non-stop. Currently outside temps are below 0 deg F and freezer still cyles frequently. Have replace the freezer tstat. Defrost...


Yup, these timers have a tiny clock motor that can get lint on them, causing motor failure, should be simple replacement. Refrigerators in cold garages run more to regulate their temperature below 45 degrees.

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I have a magic chef refrigerator model # mcbr415sf. The top freezer part does not get cold enough to keep ice cream cold, but when you turn the temp up -- there is only one temp control and that controls...


Hello,

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May 12, 2011 | Refrigerators

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Ge profile PSS26MGP side by side installed in Oct 2008. Background: on 1-03-2011 freeze-refer temps approx 13 and 48, apples in top deli-fresh drawer were frozen. Ice maker not making ice, minimal water...


The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
*One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.


On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a Side x Side style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing,or an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.

Feb 07, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frost just appeared all over the freezer. Temp was set at 0-has been set there since we got it.


There are two possible causes or types of frosting. One is where the surface of the items in the freezer have frost on them. It may be in one spot or evenly distributed. This is caused by excess room air getting into the freezer because of leaky door gasket which should seal snugly on a dollar bill inserted between the gasket. Frequent or prolonged door opening will also allow room air in. The higher moisture content in the air freezes on the surfaces of the food etc.

The other cause and type of frosting is automatic defrost failure.


DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

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1 Answer

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Good day,
Sounds like a bad timer to me. Forget the tstat. Power comes from the power cord and goes directly to the tstat. The tstat sends the power to the timer where it is directed to either the compressor or defrost heaters as needed.
Recheck your plug connector to the timer carefully. I have installed many timers that did not work, or work right, right out of the box.
As well, to cover yourself, I would replace the defrost tstat which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
It's a small round disk clipped to the top of the cooling coil, and is the component that is by far, the component that fails most often.
Check the connections to the main heater as well, while your in there.
The defrost tstat looks like this.
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Aug 17, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Side by Side that the coils freeze up and stop the airflow. Is the defrost timer not working correctly?


could be defrost timer or defrost t-stat or defrsot heater you have to do a continuity test on the tstat and heater first to assure they are working properly

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Good day,
35 minutes would be considered nominal. That is the amount of time needed to heat up the cooling coils behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, and then allow it to drain the condensate water out the drain.

The defrost cycle is made up of 2 parts.
The first part involves shutting all fans and compressor off, and turning on the heater/heaters mounted on the bottom of the cooling coil to above freezing. About 10 to 15 minutes.

The second half occures when a defrost thermostat mounted on the top of that coil senses the coil is above freezing. It cuts the power to the heaters, and lets the system just idle, while the water is allowed to drain out of the drain.

If that tstat is working properly, the food temperature is affected slightly but never to an above freezing condition.
The thermostat is a small 1" round disk clipped to the top of the coil.

Only one possibility, but that tstat could be hanging allowing the freezer coil compartment to reach a very high temperature. If so, it needs replaced.

You should also check to see if both fans and compressor start running as soon as the cycle is done.

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Upright freezer quit cooling, compressor runs, interior fan runs. copper line from compressors, 1 is warm and 1 at room temp


Hi..

Try to check this

Good luck!!!

Regards
PCmania

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I REPLACED THE DEFROST ASSY COMPONENT ON MY JENN-AIR REFRIG, BUT STILL WON'T COOL ENOUGH. fREEZER WON'T FREEZE side by side jcd2289


Make sure both fans are running and check that your the coil is not frozen. The coil is behind the freezer panel.

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