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MY Samsung Refrigerator Model# RS263TDPN is not cooling, I have had two different companies out to address the problem. The 1st company replaced the main power inverter board behind the rear panel at the top of fridge. This dis not fix it. The 2nd company tested my old board and said the voltages were present, they then ordered both DC Fans (one for the freezer-one for the fridge) the unit has been running for 5 days and no cooling, I have verified that the fans are running by placing a magnet on both door sensors to trick the unit into thinking the door is closed (the lights go out and the fans operate on fridge and freezer) but still no cool air. Could there be a bad temp sensor some where inline? Any ideas? ANY tech service manual help?

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 9,472 Answers

Does the compressor kick on?

Posted on Oct 28, 2012

  • 3 more comments 
  • jimM Oct 29, 2012

    Yes, it kicks on and is warm to the touch-but not hot. Do you think that maybe it is not getting up to speed, I think these new compressors are are variable speed.

  • jimM Oct 30, 2012

    Any Ideas Richard Roth?

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Oct 30, 2012

    You will need to have the sensors tested.

  • jimM Oct 30, 2012

    Do you know how I can test the two sensors? I believe they are located each on the evaporator line in fridge and freezer. I have a sensor clipped on each.

  • jimM Dec 18, 2012

    Richard, I have three termistors in the freezer and two in the fridge. I tested one in the fridge and the reading changes once I let it set in a cup of ice water for 5 min. could just one bad sensor caause this?



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: side by side GE refrigerator psf26pgta

The fan should be a standard 12v DC computer style fan , test that you are getting voltage to the fan connector . You should also be able to get the fan to run by connecting it to a suitable supply . Once you have eliminated the possibility of fan failure then it gets more involved.

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: model dss25pfmdww quit cooling

We do need to check the PC board part number WR55X10656

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

SOURCE: GE side by side refrigerator. Fridge side not cooling - help!

Hi, they have changed lots of parts, were they defected, did they tested parts for faults or they just change parts, because it's available, there's always a reason why a certain part, go bad. so far you change most of parts in ref. check refrigerant (gas, freon) pressure, check compressor, for faulty suction and high side valve, it's possible your compressor loosing efficiency. or say if compressor normally pump 50 psi. now it's pumping 40 psi. is the refrigeration cycle balance ? is there restriction in your ref. system? is compressor running long enough? plug on ref. let it run for 1hr, listen to compressor for any clicking sound, fans and everything else could be working, be compressor not, compressor could be short cycling (not working long enough) also check voltage in receptacle(outlet) with digital multi-tester, get accurate voltage reading, let me know, could also be a faulty circuit breaker in house (building) not your ref. let me know, system could have very slow refrigerant leak, you could have a very small (slow) gas leak, that's why your refrigerator get hot first, then your freezer, there's a condensate line (loop) that passes through, ref body, close to doors to prevent door gasket from freezing, after few years sometimes develope leaks, cause by rusting. it's very possible there could be small leak in your system. let me know what happened.good luck.

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

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Why is water pooling on bottom of refrigerator under the fresh food drawers


My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

Your purchased a high price Samsung refrigerator. About 60% of my service calls were either Samsung or LG models. They look great on the show floor.

Your unit has two cooling evaporator coils. One in the freezer which is common and one in the fresh food section which is not common. All Sansung has done is add another series of high failure components.

You have a frozen drain in your fresh food section. You can either call a service company or shut down your refrigerator for 36-24 hours to defrost the drain. You call a service company, if I were still working for Sears, I would have to charge you about $350.00 to tear out the back wall and replace this usless coil.

Turn off your refrigerator for 24-36 hours. Hopefully it is not a fan or a colling coil failure in your refrigerator.

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 PULL THE PLUG FROM THE WALL , Check the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator to see if it is "HOT" don't get burned. If it is hot then probably the fan next to it is not working,( I found my light bill caught in the blades of mine). You will have to plug in the refrigerator to see if the fan works. If nothing is working and you have a repair manual for your Model refrigerator. Read the directions on testing the relay unit on the side of the compressor. If This is OK then check your defrost timer. The above 2 items plus the thermostat are the only things that keep your refrigerator from operating. If the "COMPRESSOR" is cold when you check it then immediately suspect the relay unit on the side of the compressor or the defrost timer. If you have already checked them and they are still good the contact your electric company for damages as the Brown-Out may have fried your Compresspr due to the surge of the electric coming back on. I have seen this happen time and time again over the past 55 years. Remember always disconnect the electric when repairing any type appliance. To check the items I mentioned you will probabley need an Ohm-meter. You may have to call a certified repairman to give you a repair bill that you can submit to the electric company. Then again some electric companys are consumer friendly and send their own inspector to certify your claim.

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