Question about LG DLG5932W Gas Dryer
DRYER SEEMS TO WORKING FINE EXCEPT DOESN'T HEAT UP. CIRCUTI BREAKERS NOT TRIPPED. VENTING SEEMS NOT TO BE BLOCKED. TRIED REMOVING FRONT PANEL TO CHECK HEAT ELEMENT BUT NOT SURE HOW TO DO. WILL TRY TO CLEAN,. ANY SUGGESTIONS
1. Open dryer door and remove the phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 O'Clock positions. 2. Remove three screws at very back, allowing top cover to be moved back about an inch and lifted off. 3. remove screw at top left and top right from front top panel. 4. pull plastic front panel along top edge to release front top panel. (watch for sharp edges) 5. Swing top up and over onto top of dryer. 6. Unplug light and door switch. 7. remove four screws at top of large lower panel. 8. lift panel up a bit and off. 9. unplug sensor plug at bottom allowing panel with door to be set aside. 10. gas dryer has dime sized high limit thermostat on left front side of burner chamber. Has two wires on it, with a small pin in the center. Push the pin in. Reassemble and clean out vent, eliminating flexible venting, replacing with rigid aluminum piping and elbows. Outside vent should have a four inch vent flap opening, not just a two inch if it is that style.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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have a dryer ( could be any make! ) that is
consistently blowing fuses after about 15-20 minutes. We have taken
the dryer apart to check for clogs in the venting system and to check
if the heating core was okay and they seem to be fine. Any ideas?
the house fuses? If yes....the dryer usually will blow a fuse right
away if there is a problem in the dryer....more often than not a fuse
that blows after the dryer has been running a while it is a fuse box
issue. A test: Put 2 new 30 amp fuses in and run the dryer with the
heat on for 5-10 minutes, turn off the dryer and
quickly remove the fuses from the house fuse box and see if they are
hot at all ( especially on the bottom )....if the fuses are getting hot
probably melting the fuse link and not really blowing = fuse box
As for most things there are exceptions....a grounded heating element -may- blow the fuse after the dryer has been on for a while, it is easy to test for that as well. See. A burnt/loose power cord/plug -may- also give this type of a problem.
Dryer basics- Venting problems and power supply:
Most dryer "to long to dry" or "poor/low heat" complaints can be traced back to a bad or poor venting system and sometimes a poorly maintained lint filter. Do not go outside and put your hand under the vent opening and say " it is fine - I feel air coming out"...that is not good enough...take your venting apart, clean it ALL out and make sure the vent hood flapper works and that it is not clogged with lint. Make sure your venting system is short, straight and resistance free as possible. A poor venting system will shorten the life of your dryer, plug up the fan blower and duct work inside your dryer as well.
Gas dryers need 120 volts to operate the whole dryer. Electric dryers need 240 volts to operate the heating element and 120 volts to operate the timer and motor. You should see 240 volts between the black and red wires, 120 volts between the red and white wires, 120 volts between the black and white wires at the electric dryer main power harness. A blown house fuse ( or breaker ) would stop a gas dryer from working at all. A blown house fuse ( or a 1/2 tripped breaker ) would still allow the electric dryer to run but you would get no heat. Depending on which fuse goes, sometimes the dryer could be dead as well. If you have problems with a fuse letting go or a breaker tripping after the dryer runs for a while, normally the problem is not in the dryer but is in the fuse box.i think it will work
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