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Re: what does it mean to
Reflow sounds like the article is referring to cracked solder joints, Reflow would mean to reheat the connection and top up means adding some more solder. In electronics, heavy heat sinks often crack where they are soldered because of expansion and contraction. RCA actually came out with a more flexible solder for this issue.
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It is working but the display is not. There are resistors on the circuit board that get loose over time. Go to www.regalgs.org and search cluster repair fix. Sometimes reflowing the solder works but sometimes you have to replace the resistors. Your driver information center and the electronic climate control go out too.
Resolder all the resistors. They say 2.7 in the manual, but the print on the component is 2R7. For solder use 60-40 rosin core with flux. The thickness should be a small diameter, but most any solder will work, you will only be putting a very small dab of solder on each solder connection. Just enough to make it melt and reflow, no more. This is no guarantee that it will fix your unit, but it is the most common cause. You may find that the display being out for yours is something different. If you have a voltmeter you can put the radio on a bench and check the voltages (DC) on those resistors when it is powered on. You will need a small power supply capable of about 3 amps to power up a car stereo. I don't remember what the voltage are supposed to be, but you should start at one end and have a high voltage and as you go from one resistor to another, the voltage will go down in equal increments. It is a voltage ladder and with all the resistors being the same value, you should have the same voltage across each resistor.
The problem is not the faceplate for any of you, it is inside the main
unit. If you know how to solder, you can fix is very easy. First take
the top off the unit, there is 1 screw in the back middle. Then take
the CD player out. It has 2 screws holding it in at the front corners
at the bottom of the CD deck. Use a number 2 phillips and take out the
gold screws holding the CD deck in place. Then you can pull out the CD
deck, and be careful not to damage the ribbon cable connected from the
CD deck to the main board. The deck can just sit up and over to the
left to get it out of the way for what needs to be soldered.
Look inside the main unit on the board and you will see in the front
right corner a series of surface mount resistors all connected in
series. Just reflow that solder on them with a small amount of new
solder added and the display will once again work perfectly. That
solder is very heat stressed, that is the problem. I have fixed dozens
of these over the last few years. Make sure you put it back together
the same as it came apart, and you are done.
There are a series of them in the right front corner (as you look at it from the front) of the main circuit board, on the top side of the board. You need to take the top panel off the radio and then remove the CD deck. Be careful removing the CD deck, it has a ribbon cable connecting it to the main board, you can just move the CD deck off to the left back side without disconnecting the ribbon cable if you want. The CD deck is held in by 4 screws, one in each corner of the CD deck at the bottom of the deck. They screw into some brass stand-offs from the bottomo of the radio casing. The surface mounted resistors all have "2R7" on them, and all of them need the solder to be reflowed. Just a small touch of the soldering iron and a very small amount of solder on each side of each resistor. This will get the display working again 99% of the time with this problem for your model number. It is always possible that there is a different reason for the display going out, but for your model number, this is a very common problem.
A "FixYa!" rating would be appropriate and very much appreciated for this free information. After all, it is the only reward that the "Experts" here at FixYa! receive for helping people like yourself. I hope you have a good day, and if you need any further help with your radio, feel free to just reply to the post with any further questions.
I am not sure exactly what solution you are reffering to, but the KDC-MP532U has a problem with the display going out that is the result of heat stressed solder on the main board. The surface mount resistors that are located on the right side near the front of the unit, as you look into it with the display facing you, are the culprits. This is common in about 3 or 4 Kenwood models. These surface mount resistors are on the top of the board, so the board doesn't need to be taken out to fix it. Just the CD mech does. The surface mount resistors just need the solder reflowed, an easy enough job if you know how to solder. They are all lined up connected to each other, I don't remember the reference numbers, but if you can recognize what a surface mount resistor looks like, you should be able to find them very easy.
Thanks for the compliment on the other post, it is appreciated. A good rating would also be appreciated.
I read up on this and saw Tech48's post related to a different model. He's the one who deserves the credit. I'm just the rookie who has the soldering iron. However, here's a picture of the 5 resistors that you need to reflow and "top up"
My model is the KDC-MP532U (same as the 532, but with the USB option).
Here's the overall view. The CD-Player is standing on its edge at the bottom. The resistors are on the bottom right by the brass screw post.
...and here's a close up of the board and the resistors....
Hope it helps. Thanks Tech48!!!! It's like I've got a new stereo!!