Question about Imperial ICVD-1-H Turbo-Flow Gas Single Oven

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Imperial convection fan motor failed after a brownout. Is it the capacitor, motor itself, or is it something else?

Model ICV 1 70,000BTU 120 Volt Purchased 1999. Original motor, dusted occasionally but never replaced. Used daily. If cost of repair is excessive, the unit should probably be replaced due to the fact that the oven door mechanism slips occasionally and can hardly be adjusted due to wear, rust, and a slight warp in a hinge cog. I would like to hear if this this otherwise fine unit is worth repairing?

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OK door mech's first. The chain gear will not warp, it is probably a seized-up chain link and the turnbuckles usually wire-brush up fine. Add some release fluid and they should adjust easily. Check the grub screws in the chain gears as these DO work loose. The chains are fitted to the adjustment rods/turnbuckles with split links. The chains and links could be replaced if the old ones are just to seized to free off. Once the door is adjusted correctly, apply copper grease (Like the stuff used on brake parts) to the chains, gears, door switch cam and hinge points. Makes a massive difference to their reliability.
Now the motor. Several variants were fitted but if I am correct, all the ICV ovens had two 11-pin relays in the control panel one for high and one for low speed. If one fails in the on position, both high and low speeds are energised together (huge buzz no motor). The relays are far more likely to be failed than a motor (assuming a brown out was just a loss of power/low power and not a massive power surge/spike). Easy check for stuck relay is to take one out and check the motor on high then low speed. One would work the other would not. Now switch the relay that is unplugged and see if the opposite speed works. If neither speed works then check cook/cool/ off switch. The cool function and the door switch form part of a two-way circuit. If either the door switch or the cook cool switch are faulty you may loose the motor function. The switches have to be tested out of circuit so note the wire positions to aid correct placement when putting wires back. Only after you have done those tests should you go to the motor terminal box and test for voltage present. If it does prove to be a faulty motor, take it off and have it rewound or replace with new motor from Imperial. Certainly cheaper than a new oven!

Posted on Nov 25, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: our imperial convection oven will not light. NO ignition

Your door switch is not reading that the unit is closed

Posted on May 28, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: No ignition

EL HORNO NO SE APAGA EN LA TEMPERATURA SELECCIONADA Y CALIENTA DEMASIADO

Posted on Feb 04, 2011

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The turnbucke system behind the lower panel is relatively straightforward but one buckle is LH thread the other is RH thread. Slacken both locknuts and adjust the buckles until the LH door lags by the thickness of the RH door when they are just coming together (a rough approximation). Don't have too much tension on the chains and lube the chains, gears etc with a copper based grease. It has been known for the little grub screws in the bottom cogs to come loose. You'll need an allen key to tighten them up.

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