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Hoover TCE 60 tumble dryer is cutting out

The machine works until such time that it wants to stop and then it blows the main fuse in the house. What could be shorting out?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: Hoover clothes dryer 3.5 kg 3525D stop working

If it does not even start then it is power supply.
If it stopped running at all then it is probably the motor.
If it runs but not dries is the heating element to be replaced.
Post make and model to get parts and diagrams

Posted on Apr 23, 2008

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AlmostBob
  • 550 Answers

SOURCE: tumble dryer fault

usually this is a sign the felt bearings on the drum, or the roller bearings under the drum are worn and need replacing
felts and rollers should be visible once you open the case
check the rollers turn freely, check the felts are not worn through
replace both rollers or both felts if one is worn

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

astruttman
  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: dryer blows house fuse --keeps tumbling--no heat

If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

Now, if your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Hoover HDC7FM condensor dryer starts then cuts out

Open the dryer door (right after the breaker trips) and check for a burned smell. If it smells in the dryer, you probably have a direct short in the dryer wiring. Check for a burn smell at the wall socket. There may be a short in the socket itself, but not likely unless a mouse is lying across the contacts in the wall.
If everything checks ok replace the circuit breaker if this is an older home. Circuit breakers weaken after years of use. A 30 amp circuit breaker will trip at a much lower amperage after a period of years especially if it has tripped often.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: I have in indesit tumble dryer model

Hiya drodger, i had the same problem with my hotpoint dryer, (same company) if this is a condenser dryer make sure the drawer is collecting the water there is a small hole at the bottom of the drawer if you have a straw poke it in and clean it out, also at the back of the dryer there is a clear plastic pipe and a black one take them both off and clean them, your problem is exactly the same as mine so you will probably have to buy a new heating element (they are a lot cheaper from ebay) they are so easy to fit just 2 clips (i did it and im not dead yet!) hopefully you will then find the dryer will work perfectly, word of advice though clean the collecting drawer out at least once a month.
Hope this helps

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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make this tests and fix it. God bless you

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element replace it.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover . The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and replace it

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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please follow the next step and fix it. God bless you
Power From The House

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door Switch

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dry to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switc

Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replace the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring

Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
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Hoover Tumble Dryer trips out


Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. It seems to be the issue with the Thermal Fuse going bad and needs to be replaced. It is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. Whenever this fuse goes bad it'll either trip the circuit breaker or the dryer wont heat. You can also check it for continuity with an ohm meter, no continuity means the fuse is bad and you need to replace it. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

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Hotpoint tumble dryer is fusing the mains box when it is turned on. We have just moved and is ok until it starts to spin.


you may have a dry bearing in the motor or the heating element is shorted to the units case both items will make unit draw excessive current and blow the fuses, also if you are using screw in fuses i.e. 2-30 amp fuses and its in an older 60 amp panel,change it over the contacts get heat cracked and lead to hi-resistance connections and this will also blow fuses from being over hot

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Will not heat, it only blow cold air, how do I change the heating element inside the unit


If the drum turns, it could be as simple as a blown fuse or breaker. The dryer has doule breaker or fuses at fuse panel. If the one blows, the heater will not work but motor willturn as motor rums on 110volts. It may be cut out thermostat or could be element, but check the power to the plug of dryer out let and make sure you getting 110 volts on from neutral to both sides and 220 between two live lines.

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Hi.
Try running it with the heater disconnected. if it goes o/k then your heater needs replacing

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Dryer runs, tumbles clothes, but does not heat


i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Aug 09, 2008 | Maytag SDG4606A Gas Dryer

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This is the 2nd time my dryer in 1 year just stopped working and last time it cost me $100


http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_8_1.asp#Level1_1
If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:

Power from the house
Door switch
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

There's no heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Jun 23, 2008 | Frigidaire Dryers

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