Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
MOST KITS HAVE AN INSTRUCTION SHEET WITH THEM.
USUALLY, THE ONLY THING YOU WILL HAVE TO DO IS REPLACE THE VENT CAP ON THE REGULATOR WITH A BLOCKING PIN AND REPLACE THE ORPHICE ON THE VALVE. BE SURE YOU CHECK FOR GAS LEAKS AFTER REASSEMBLY. BE CAREFUL NOT TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE IGNITOR. IT IS ON THE END OF THE BURNER.
IT DOES NOT BEND AT ALL. IF YOU PUT TOO MUCH PRESSURE ON IT, IT WILL BREAK.
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer won't heat
The fact that it worked for 3 days and then failed suggests that it is probably something else. You may have a non-resttable thermal fuse that opened or the gas valve itself isn't functioning. Can you see the glow of the igniter when it starts? Are you sure the burner is getting gas from the inlet valve?
These are the basic components to investigate.. Let me know the outcome of these checks and we can get you going again if none of these work.. Regards
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
When I posted the question, I had not removed the front of the dryer. I thought the gas burner etc. had to be accessed from the back. As soon as I removed the front of the dryer I realized it was all up front and accessable. Conversion was straight forward from that point.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
A dryer is a dryer. Most cases they all work the same. You will need to get an LP conversion kit for that model to complete the task.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
yes it is very much necessary. the natural gas pressure is much lower that LP. it is @3.5 in, water column. The monometer is a pressure reading instrument that will tell what pressure is present at the gas source, appliance gas manifold and gas valve. Read the conversion kit instructions well. And adjust pressure according to data plate specifications. A u-tube water monometer is the best and most accurate however a standard analog will surfice. Please use caution.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
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