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Hc01-f12 fault code vulcan ducted heater touch pad control

Heating wont come on

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: vulcan cx90 ducted heater

240 volt wiring required.

Posted on Mar 17, 2008

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Vulcan gas ducted heating systemr

Hi,
The reason the heater is cutting out is because it is getting too hot or it thinks it is too hot...
Check the filter and also that enough air vents are open so it can move enough air....make sure the gas pressure is correct and that the flame is not too high. Check that the blower is working correctly and starting up when it should. Check the post purge... make sure the blower is running to remove residual heat after the flame shuts down.
If all that checks out then you may have a bad sensor or control module, but they are much more difficult to troubleshoot.
Bottom line is that for some reason you are either getting too hot or the furnace is sensing too hot of temperatures and shutting down.

heatman101

Posted on May 24, 2011

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Is your heater a ducted gas heater how old is it and what does the wall control look like.

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Just been thru a similar problem with my Climate Technologies Vulcan High Efficiency Ducted Gas heater which in this case is installed under the house. This heater is about 7 years old and I have previously (2 years back) refurbished the controller by replacing the main power supply electrolytic filter capacitors.

I also had a communication problem with the Touch pad Thermostat which in the end required replacing the entire touch pad as one of it's voltage regulators had gone intermittent (Touch pads are available on E-Bay). To operate the heater while the touch pad was out of commission I installed a manual switch between the heat contacts on the heater controller. Closing the switch causes the heater to permanently run if it has no thermostat. Once communication with the touch panel was restored we were able to try and find the intermittent heater fault.

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Fault 1 was the flame sensor where the weld between the wire and flame probe rod had broken but it was still touching. This meant it was sensing Flame OK and then later would go open with expansion as the temperature rose. I fixed this by replacing the Flame Probe with a new one sourced from Reece HVAC.

At this point I celebrated thinking it was fixed!

Fault 2 after the flame sensor issue was cleared the fault still persisted but slightly less often.
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On the control board there is a potentiometer marked "MIN GAS RATE" this needs to be tweaked clockwise until the burner remains lit when the nominal 60-65C duct temperature is reached. Don't turn it up too far or the heater may not throttle back enough and end up going out on overheat.

Once a stable flame is achieved when throttled, try the heater in the economy mode which uses a lower recirculating fan speed and check the flame still remains lit. My problem was most obvious in the Econ mode.

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1 Answer

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Remove the return air filter clean if fitted.

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Check if the ductwork has been obstructed in any way.

Have the room fan checked and the auto high limit changed by a qualified person. Have a Carbon monoxide test done every 2 years.

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