Question about Electrical Supplies
Stored just over a year. fixed the clogged carb when it leaked gas. Got it started but voltage output in the 110plugs can only be read when voltmeter is set on 10V versus 250V. when set to 10V, output reads 11V. not enough juice to operate even a small drill. I would really appreciate any help from somebody. I'm waiting to not pull out the brushes since it looks pretty involved. Please help.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
ajust the float in your carb (bend the brass tab in that the top of the needle valve touches)and clean this needle valve. the bowl can be removed with a 7/16 box wrench on the bottom brass nut that is also a needle jet (clean this jet ,some models it is just a jet, others it is ajustable and needs to be 1 turn out to start then ajust wile running hot untill it stops surging) the problem is not allowing enough fuel to fill the float bowl
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
Around 75 volts DC
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
Testimonial: "SORRY FOR THE DELAY, YES AND THE GENERATOR IS NOW OPERATING NORMALLY. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP AND EXPERTISE. LARRY KINCAID"
There are a few scenarios that can cause this.
1) The extension cord that you are using is too long / too light of a guage. Try a heavier extension cord, or plug directly into the generator.
2) The alternator has lost its "residual magnetism" and may need to be reflashed. Consult Northstar for instructions and details.
3) The voltage regulator (actually a simple capacitor) may be "weak"
4) The diode for field winding may be bad.
You can get a copy of your manual here, page 40 has diagram and part numbers.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. I note your reading power at the brushes. Ok the wiring and circuitry is good to the brushes.
You can have all the eciter voltage present at the brush terminals but if the brushes are bad that voltage never reaches the rotor so you do not get any field voltage generated. I.e. no output.
You should first take a resistance reading across the terminals of the brushes to see if you have continuity via the brushes through the rotor winding.
No continuity... Remove the brush block and red the slip rings directly for rotor resistance.
Low resistance = good rotor.
No resistance = Bad Rotor.
That is only half of the windings.... The Stator winding will also have to be checked. There should be 6 stator windings. 2 windings will read about 15 Ohms each and one will read about 4 ohms.
If you have already changed the power head your looking at a problem with windings.
You should read 1.1 - 3 ohms white to black on the power outlets with the output power switch ON. No reading = switch/ wiring/ stator winding problems. (I.e... the 2 terminals of the powered outlets)
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Posted on Dec 08, 2010
Disconnect the leads going to the brushes, and check for continuity (resistance) of the field winding. You should be able to measure *something* on the order of a few ohms. If you have resistance, then check each brush contact to the shaft that the field winding is on. There should not be any resistance at all, if there is, you have a shorted field winding and will need to be replaced.
Check the resistance of the stator winding next, make sure that nothing is connected to the generator, disconnect the stator wires if you are able (label them!). Check for resistance between the leads (2 wires for a 2 pole, 4 wires for a 4 pole). If there is no resistance, then the stator is open, and will need to be replaced. Also check for resistance from each wire to the frame of the alternator, there should not be any resistance here (indicating a shorted stator). If there is, then you have a shorted stator, and will need to have it replaced.
Replacement is likely to be impractical, probably cheaper to buy another generator with the same engine and keep the old engine as a spare. Still, contact an automotive starter / alternator shop for prices.
Posted on Feb 08, 2011
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