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If The Burner lights and stays lit as long as the knob is depressed, but goes out after the knob is released then there is a failure with the thermocoupler or the valve itself. The thermocoupler can be tested once removed from the cooktop - as follows
Heat the tip on the thermocoupler with a match or lighter and measure the electrical connection (other end) with a voltmeter - it should read about 15 mV or slightly more with in a few seconds. If no voltage is read then the thermocoupler is faulty and should be replaced.
The valve coil can also be tested for continuity at while the unit is disassembled. If no continuity is found the valve is faulty and should be replaced
The small voltage created from heating the thermocoupler energizes the coil in the valve which in turn keeps the gas turned on while there is heat at the thermocoupler.
Some units actually reignite the burner if the heat is lost and the control knob is in the on position.
Need a new fsd ( looks like a small brass pencil) for the burner that won't light. The alignment of the ignition electrodes needs looking at and there over all condition I. E broken , worn , misaligned ect
I have the same problem especially with the center burner, but now am having increasing difficulty with two other burners. Those will eventually stay lit if I depress the knob for 20 - 30 seconds. The center burner will not stay lit, even when keeping the knob depressed for 2 - 3 minutes!
Remove all the burner heads and lift the top. Sometimes easier said than done. How do you know it is the module? It could be a cracked insulator on the ignitor. To verify you can swap two of the connections on the module and if it lights then it is the module. eric
You might have cracked the electrode if you were scrubbing next to it, otherwise you might try taking a little sandpaper and scuffing off any residue on the top of the igniter and seeing if that does the trick. Good Luck!