Question about Frigidaire Refrigerators
The Freezer is working but frosting up. The Icebox is all the way over to colder but its not cold
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi. thanks for the question. the drain tube that goes down to the drain tray is clogged. turn fridge off .pull fridge from wall. remove back panel clean all coils. let it thaw with doors open, it will thaw quiker. when thawed, clean the drain tube. this will solve the problem. thanks the appliance doc
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
check the fan relay and the compressor to make sure it is still working...if not there is a capasiter you can replace to get it to work again
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
Val sounds like a defrost problem..go ahead and defrost your freezer again... check your evaporator drain your fan motors let let me know and I can help you Krazytech
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
OK, I will take you to the Maytag Service Library, You will need to put your refrigerator through some self diagnostic to locate the problem, click on link below and let me know when you are ready, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on May 22, 2009
SOURCE: freezer too cold
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on May 24, 2009
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