Question about Kitchen Ranges

Open Question

My 1991 kenmore electric range with dial timers etc. will no longer turn on the oven. It happened after I had problems getting the lock for the oven off and after I had used the self cleaning. I have tried turning the knobs for the timers, but I am thinking there is some kinda weird trick to it I have the manual and the trouble shooting section refers to the timer section but most of the information is for an electronic timer, not a manual dial one... any help that you can give me?

Posted by on

5 Suggested Answers

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: oven won't shut off

Tes, sounds like the relays on the board welded shut or the selector is bad. Looks like the clock and selector are all one unit. If you post a complete model number I can give you a part number and you can look it up on the net to get a price. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Nov 05, 2006

SOURCE: Error code F3 on Kenmore 911.4658815 electric range

INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

SOURCE: clock,timer and oven does not work on Kenmore gas Range

I was turning the timer and clock knobs on my oven and now it won't work. I don't know what position they are supposed to be in ... any ideas?

Posted on Mar 11, 2008

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: Oven won't lock and self clean.

Shut off the oven for at least a minute and turn it on, set the clock, and it worked. I had tried a short power cycle before and it didn't fix it. The extended power cycle did the trick.

Posted on May 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore 790 Oven Locking mechanism problem

hold down the stop/clear button for 3+ seconds

Posted on May 25, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

KENMORE ELECTRIC RANGE 95032. EVERYTHING WORKS BUT OVEN DOES NOT HEAT.


Hi,
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Nov 25, 2010 | Kenmore 95032 / 95034 Electric Kitchen...

1 Answer

Oven will not heat to desired temperature


Hi,
The baking element is probably the problem...

Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

Apr 20, 2010 | Kenmore 91112 / 91114 / 91117 Electric...

1 Answer

Self-cleaning oven doesn't work on Kenmore electric oven


I suspect the timer is involved in this process. It can be set to clean automatically. You need to set the complete time at least 2 hours after start.

Aug 27, 2009 | Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Self cleaning will not operate, lock door, set timer and turn dial to clean, but does not clean oven.


Hi,

Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...

Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks

Jun 09, 2009 | GE Hotpoint 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

Removed dial knobs, put back on oven doesn't work


possibilities are that the spindle retaining clip is missing giving the impression that the oven thermostat is being turned when infact it i s slipping, or the oven is in auto mode if timer model.

Feb 22, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

No instructions for self cleaning oven


I turned both dials to clean and worked with the start timer and the stop timer until it engaged. I now have a clean oven again!

Feb 06, 2009 | Kenmore 45062 / 45069 Electric Kitchen...

2 Answers

Error Code F1 on oven timer panel


I have the same problem as above. Is there any quicker way to get an answer from tech support. I have no stove or oven right now.

Sep 05, 2008 | Kenmore 46123 Stainless Steel Electric...

2 Answers

Clock,timer and oven does not work on Kenmore gas Range


Unplug the unit and see if this will reset the board. If this doesn't work then replace the oven control board.

Oct 04, 2007 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Oven won't shut off


Tes, sounds like the relays on the board welded shut or the selector is bad. Looks like the clock and selector are all one unit. If you post a complete model number I can give you a part number and you can look it up on the net to get a price. Catriver..post back.

Nov 04, 2006 | Hotpoint RB787 Electric Kitchen Range

10 Answers

Self cleaning oven directions


Press the self-clean button.  The panel becomes blank(---), then press the up arrow( ^ ).  The panel will appear 3:00 (indication for the duration of self-cleaning). The oven will lock on its own and start the self-cleaning.  Good luck, ya'll!

Oct 24, 2006 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Kitchen Ranges Logo

Related Topics:

37 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kitchen Ranges Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8205 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

70365 Answers

paulcarew

Level 3 Expert

2364 Answers

Are you a Kitchen Range Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...