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The flywheel should have a woodruff key on it, which fits in the groove on the crank shaft. This means the timing is pre set. When setting the timing gap, use a business card between the magnet on the flywheel and the ignition module, tighten them in that position and remove the card.
Is fuel getting into the cylinder and actually wetting the plug.?
Do you have good compression?
disconnect any and all kill wires going to the coil... if you still have no spark then it can ONLY be the coil... if this produces spark then you have a kill system problem or your flywheel has no magnetism... and this can be the only solution as you do not have points/condenser or things just went full derp
Indications that the motor is out of time: jerks the rope out of your hand when trying to start, pops out the carb, runs but has no power and sounds 'off'. When assembling the motor a dot on the cam gear and a dot on the crank gear need to be lined up. If the motor has run correctly before the problem and has not been disassembled then the problem is likely external. There are no actual timing adjustments. The flywheel key holds the flywheel in the correct position. If it is sheared or partially sheared the timing will be off. Check the flywheel key by removing the flywheel and visually inspecting the flywheel key; replace if not 100%. On assembly be sure the flywheel nut is tight or it will shear the key (again), then set the armature air gap ( gap between ignition module and flywheel magnet) to .020 On older motors the points gap can affect timing also but I dont believe your model has points. The points gap is also .020
The ignition module is bolted to the front of the flywheel. Im going to assume this is a pushmower and not a leaf blower... Remove the plastic top cover, remove the fuel tank, disconnect the dipstick tube, leave it in the seat but rotate the stay out of the way. Tie the engine kill bail to the handle- run position. disconnect the spark plug wire. remove the flywheel shroud / starter assembly. You will see the flywheel, intake tube and the ignition module right there on top of the motor. Armature air gap is 20 thousandths ( good quality thick business card works good). Set the gap with the magnet faceing the module.
Place a standard file card or postcard between the flywheel and the magneto pickup. Adjust the spacing by loosening the two screws that hold the magneto in place and push the magneto against the postcard while tightening the screws securing the magneto in place. Before making this adjustment ensure that any rust on the surface of the flywheel and the magneto pickup elements has been cleaned off by using 400 grit sandpaper. Once you have completed those steps you should be able to crank the engine and observe a spark at the spark plug gap or between the end of the spark plug wire and the chassis of the engine. If a spark is present you may want to ensure that the split key which maintains the timing and ensures the flywheel remains aligned on the crankshaft has not deformed or split in two. This sometimes happens if the mower hits something that suddenly stops the blade from spinning or abruptly kills the engine.
According with the repairt guide, check this porocedure to REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
Fig. Exploded view of the starter motor mounting - 5S-FE engine shown, others similar (click image for zoom)
On some early models with cruise control, you may have to remove the battery.
Also on some models with cruise control, remove the actuator cover
and disconnect the wiring harness. Remove the three bolts and then lift
out the cruise control actuator. Remove the bracket from beneath the
actuator and put aside.
Peel the rubber boot away and remove the nut and disconnect the
negative battery cable from the magnetic switch terminal on the starter.
Disconnect the electrical connector also located on the magnetic
Support the starter by hand and remove the two mounting bolts.
Remove the starter from the transaxle.
Place the starter motor in the transaxle and support by hand.
Install the two mounting bolts and tighten them to 29-31 ft. lbs. (39-42 Nm).
Connect the connector to the magnetic switch. Place the battery
cable on the switch terminal and install the nut. Tighten the nut and
position the rubber boot over the cable.
Using the ignition switch, "bump" the starter over a few times and check for proper operation.
SOLENOID OR RELAY REPLACEMENT The starter solenoid (magnetic switch) is an integral part of the starter assembly.
Remove the starter from the car. Remove the heat insulator from the starter assembly, if equipped.
Disconnect the wire lead from the magnetic switch terminal.
Remove the two long, through bolts holding the field frame to the
magnetic switch. Pull out the field frame with the armature from the
On 1.0 kW starters, remove the felt seal. On 1.4 kW starters, remove the O-ring.
To remove the starter housing from the magnetic switch assembly:
On 1.0 kW starters, remove the two screws and the starter housing with the idler gear and clutch assembly.
On 1.4 kW units, remove the two screws and the starter housing with the pinion gear, idler and clutch assembly.
If necessary, install the gears and clutch assembly to the starter housing. Apply grease to the gear and clutch assemblies and:
On 1.0 kW starters, place the clutch assembly, idler gear and bearing in the starter housing.
On 1.4 kW starters, place the clutch assembly, idler gear, bearing and pinion gear in the starter housing.
Insert the spring into the clutch shaft hole and place the starter housing onto the magnetic switch. Install the two screws.
On 1.0 kW units, install the felt seal on the armature shaft. On 1.4 kW units, install the O-ring on the field frame.
Install the field frame with the armature onto the magnetic switch assembly and install the two through bolts.
There is a protrusion or tab on each part; make sure you line them up correctly.
Connect the wire to the terminal on the magnetic switch. Install the heat insulator, if equipped.
Reinstall the starter on the vehicle. Check starter system for proper operation.
Hope this helps (remember to rating and leave a testimonial comment about this answer).
Check the kill switch terminals with a continuity tester (small multi-meter will work). If the switch is Ok and there is no spark, take off the engine cover and check the "air-gap" between the magnets in the flywheel and the ignition module legs.The closer the better, but you want about a ,008-.010"gap there...about the width of a standard sized business card. Metal feeler gauges "stick" of course to the magnet area in the flywheel and throw off clearance sensitivity. Try it with a business card. If not in range, then loosen the coil screws, double the card over, and let the magnets pull the coil legs into the card...retighten screws and check for spark.
I’m and owner as you and will toss out this info. The OD alarm means the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW Control Board has not sensed a lid open condition for three completed wash cycles.You can unplug the washer 120VAC power and plug back in and see if that will give you three more wash cycle before extending the OD alarm again.This would only be a temp fix.You have probably lost Lid is Closed/Lid is Open signaling back to the Control Board from the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly. Take a look at this post and see if will help you repair the issue.I have some pic's and links in that post that may help.You will need the Service Manual for working on this machine. I use external magnets over the left lid bumper to accurate the magnetic operated reed relay switch located in the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly to check for signaling operation of that magnetic reed relay back to the Control Board.I’m going to start out by having you check out the Magnet Reed Relay signaling from the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly. With the Washer Lid open start a quick wash cycle, you should signal an OP alarm to the console do you?If so now close the washer lid the OP alarm should clear if the Lid Magnet is not out of position.If it doesn’t clear place couple magnets on the left bumper as I show in this post.If the OP alarm now clears then the lid magnet is out of position and the manual will show you its location to repair. If you still trigger an OD alarm then it’s time to inspect the Left Lid Lock Plug and assembly for corrosion issues.See Page 34 of the Service Manual.The technicians thumb is on the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly.The Left Hand Lid Lock assembly is not a sealed very well and is subject to corrosion issues with its location near the bleach dispenser.If you are a DIY’eryou won’t have any problem getting to the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly.The mating plug can be very difficult to remove from the assembly watch your knuckles.Be careful when you open the case halves of the Left Hand Lid lock assembly it is very easy to damage those retaining tabs.Unplug the 120VAC to your machine and follow the manual to raise the washer top from the base.If you have heavy corrosion issues you can clean up with contact cleaner ( I use WD-40) and some emery cloth/fine grit sandpaper.Check to see if the Black and Red wires are on the magnetic reed relay switch solder connections have not broken loose from corrosion.They can be re-soldered back on if they have broken loose.I don’t believe they have if you are not showing an OP alarm at the start of the wash cycle.You may want to squirt some WD-40 into the into the Left Hand Lid Lock plug and re-seat a few times if you have heavy corrosion in the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly as seen in the Pic. If you use a DVM/Ohm meter to check the magnetic reed relay switch make sure you unseat/pull the Left Hand Lid Lock Plug from the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly to isolate the signaling leads going back to the Control Board, we don’t want to kill the Control Board with the Ohm Meter. I would only break out the DVM if I had to start troubleshooting signaling back thru the wiring harness to the control boart inputs and +12VDC output to the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly. The Control Board would have to be isolated fom the Ohm Meter measurements. I recommend not using a DVM/Ohm meter at this point of the troubleshooting process. Here is a link for the Left Hand Lid Lock if you feel it would be easier to replace the assembly.Left Lid LockOther suppliers will have the part I like these folks. Post back if you have additional questions.
Take the coil off clean with sand paper then get a piece of cardboard from a cereal box or cigarette box, put the piece of cardboard in between the coil and the magnetic strip on the flywheel ''believe it or not it is the perfect gap'' 'let the magnet pull the two together'' then tighten the coil down. if still no spark get a new coil.