Question about Summit Appliances Division Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Jeremy, after the line and new filter drier is put in the high pressure side and silver soldered make sure the unit is placed in absolute vacuum for 30 to 60 minutes. It's critical that all air and moisture is remove and the charge applied on low side with out a single air bubble put back in. You may need some on hands help on this solution to get the cooler working properly, Thanks Sea Breeze
Posted on Oct 27, 2007
If you're handy with a soldering iron, it's possible to 'trick' the fridge into cooling down a few more degrees.
If you open the door to the fridge, on the right wall near the bottom is a small plastic grate. You should be able to pull this straight out from the side wall. There is a temperature sensor attached to the back of the grate. Unplug the sensor. (The fridge will then give you a very annoying error beep and display "EE" on the readout. Pushing the °F-°C button stopped the beeping.) This sensor will change resistance with temperature. (The lower the temperature, the higher the resistance) I was reading a resistance of about 3700 ohms at 43°F and 2460 ohms at 68°F. Throw in a rough assumption that the response is linear and it works out to almost 50ohms/degree. In order to 'trick' the fridge into cooling down more, you need to drop the resistance. I was aiming for about 6 degrees cooler. Assuming the resistance response was linear, 6 degrees cooler would give me about 4000 ohms from the sensor. By jumpering a 50000 ohm resistor (yes, 50K ohm) in parallel with the sensor, I should get about 6 degrees cooler. I did the soldering, plugged the sensor back in, and ended up about 8 degrees cooler. Two days so far, everything appears good and the beer is cold.
Put a 50K ohm resistor in parallel with the temperature sensor behind the grate on the inside right hand wall.
The temperature read out will be inaccurate forever after though. But then, I just want cold beer, my wife wants cold water, and the kids want to play with the cool blue light. I don't care what the number on the readout is.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
Hi, sounds to me as though your temperature control is faulty, and the unit is running all the time. This control will have to be replaced. This is something you can do if you take your time and draw a wiring diagram in case you forget. It will have a long coiled up wire with a bulb on the end of it mounted in the evaporator section in the refrigerator section. This all comes out together. This is the only thing that would cause this problem. Get all of the numbers, model, serial, and part numbers when you go to the appliance parts house to get one. You should have no problems in doing this. Please keep me posted as I am sure this unit is worth changing out the stat.
Posted on Feb 02, 2010
I returned our unit to Home Depot with relative ease... I think they were all aware there is a problem with these units.
They refunded the full purchase price (even though I was well past the 12-month warranty period). I put the money toward a GE Profile unit that's a little bigger - more expensive, yes; but it works, priceless!
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
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