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Wiring diagram for schuller frost thermostat

Their are three wire connections C 2 1 when temperature rises 1-C opens 2-C CLOSES The old stat only had two wires

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Wiring a Dayton Greenhouse Thermostat to control an exhaust fan

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Posted on Mar 26, 2008

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SOURCE: GE refrigerator wiring diagram

Icemaker must be at 28 degrees to make ice. The harness supplying the power should have 120 volts there at all times, and the icemaker itself is the device that switches the power off and on once all requirements are met. Your diagram for the fridge is on the rear service panel, or in a packet on the insisde rear..accordianman

Posted on Apr 03, 2008

Da Brain
  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Wiring a Drayton Room Stat into central heating system

9 TIMES OUT OF 10 THE COLORS ARE THE SAME. MATCH THEM UP. FIRST LABEL THE WIRES ON THE ORIGINAL STAT, AND PUT THEM IN THE CORRESPONDING PLACE ON NEW ONE.

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: rewire an old 2 wire thermostat to a honeywell 5-1-1 programmable

I connected the blue wire to the R and the white wire to the W on the old thermostat and shoved the new Honeywell 5-1-1 Day programmable thermostat up the first guys *** that i ran into at Canadian Tire

Thanks for your help

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: Help - I am trying to install a honeywell RLV4300A

You will have to have schematics from the old wiring diagram. Then you will have to confirm its consistency with actual old wiring before you can be sure that the wires run to the proper places on the old heater and a/c system. This sounds like a gas furnace and is simpler than a heatpump. Once you know what distinguishes the wires with the same color, you should label them and then you may call them a different color if they were wired with wrong wire colors. You may be in luck if you go to the furnace control box an look at the terminals.. They are usually labeled with a R for Red and W for white and Bl for Blue and B or Black. If you have other colors on these then it sounds that it was wired with wire spare wire by someone who knew what they were doing but neglected to leave a path for someone else follow.
You may be able to use a continuity tester of circuit tester to id these wires that are in question...
ie, once indintified, you can match with the requirements of the new stat.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

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Frost build up on back on freezer, I had to manually defrost, no ice was being made and can't get temperature to stay set. Normally have it on 36 fridge and 1 freezer


Your settings sound pretty good.

FREEZER temp should ideally be set at zero... or just immediately below... and the REFRIGERATOR at 33°F or immediately above freezing.

Before you actually rip your refrigerator apart and start trouble shooting... IF possible... It is best to unload everything and completely defrost your unit... open , dry and powered off

Plug it all back in and start over completely anew.

If then... it is still failing... Powered off

There are really only three parts...
  1. Defrost timer (cheap) or Primary Circuit Board (pretty pricy)
  2. Defrost thermostat Ohm-meter shows "on" under 55°F, off for higher temps
  3. Heater element... Open on ohms meter = defective.
For actual trouble shooting... once you have determined if it is the freezer defrost circuit... find the appropriate temperature sensor on your wiring diagram... that is the cheapest part to experiment with... "DEFROST THERMOSTAT" ... BUY IT.

Install it... powered on...!!
I ordered the "heater" at the same time... as I am getting old & don't fit inside freezer areas for extended periods and it was in the immediate area (my parts were from appliancepartszone)

Try using the specific part number on an online search... get at least three prices... and look at SEARS Parts prices... for ABSOLUTE worst case pricing... (same part... terrible price!).

Got it? Sears Parts... No!

Your primary logic board... will be the worst/high cost item
that could be causing your DEFROST PROBLEMS.

Use extreme care and wire tie your connections AWAY from the fan blades. Any OBSTRUCTION there will cause more troubles than you are fixing

Good luck and happy hunting

Nov 11, 2015 | Frost Refrigerators

2 Answers

Need to know wiring diagram for IMIT TR2 9325 thermostat


The three connections are labled (C),(1),and (2). (C) is common (useually the white wire). (1) is hot power into the thermostat (black wire). (2) is ran to your heater. So when the thermostat is turned on it will connect (1) and (2) until it reaches tempature. Hope this helps.

Nov 20, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have an Amana ARB8057CSR that has stopped cooling. I have replaced the capacitor and overload relay on the compressor as well as the defrost thermostat and eliment. When plugged in it sounds like th


Part of your message was missing but I do see that you did not mention the defrost thermostat=> 12001937 Defrost Thermostat
Chec for any loose wire or burned electrical connections and remember that the defrost thermostat is designed to be on while below freezing temperatures and once the temperaytures reach 50 degrees F the contacts in the defrost thermostat open to prevent the freezer from getting stuck in the defrost cycle for too long and also is a safety feature. Test the defrost thermostat with a OHM Meter while freezing.. Ask if you need I will be here to answer any questions you may have, rate if helpful and please ask if you need more answers, Thanks John Tripp/ AKA Sea Breeze

Possible Causes

Symtoms: Frost or ice on evaporator

1. Defrost thermostat faulty->Check defrost thermostat. Replace if failed.

2. Evaporator fan faulty ->Check fan motor. Replace if failed.

3. Defrost control faulty ->Check control and replace if failed.

4. Defrost heater remains open -> Check defrost heater continuity.Replace if failed.

5. Open wire or connector -> Check wiring and connections. Repair as necessary

6. Refrigerant shortage or restriction -> Refrigerant shortage or restriction. This will look very differen that a totally frosted over evaporator. Click here for what that looks like=> Lack of Freon

11_9_2011_11_43_59_pm.jpg

Nov 09, 2011 | Amana ARB8057CSR Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Why am I all of a sudden getting frost in my freezer when I have a frost free freezer? My setting has not change, it still is set for 0.


One (or more) of the components in the defrost circuit has failed. Left unchecked, the frost will choke off the cool air supply to the fridge & freezer and temperatures in both will rise.

There are 4 main components to the defrost circuit. They are:

1) Defrost timer,

steve_con_94.jpg
Some timers are modular and have knobs to manually advance.



2) Defrost terminator,

steve_con_8.jpeg
Some defrost terminators have clips to hold them in place.


3) Defrost heater

steve_con_95.jpg
Defrost heaters come in all shapes and sizes.


and 4) Wiring harness. Any of the the first 3 items is a likely source of the problem. The wiring harness is seldom a problem.

The defrost timer is an assembly that consists of a small clock motor and contact switches. The defrost is activated for up to about 20 minutes; 2 or 3 times per day. If the clock motor has failed you will be stuck in which ever mode it failed in - your's would be stuck in the compressor mode. If the contacts have failed, it will not be able to send power from the compressor to the defrost circuit. It will have 4 or more wires - and often is a plug in wiring harness type device. These will only connect one way - unless you force it.

The defrost terminator is a simple temperature sensor. It is often clipped directly to the refrigerant coil - but may be anywhere in the refrigerant coil compartment (which is most often found behind the back wall of the freezer itself). It operates like a simple switch. It is closed when the coil or compartment temperature is below about 50 degrees F (normal cooling or compressor mode). When the defrost timer switches from compressor mode to defrost mode, power is passed through the terminator to the heater. When the temperature rises above this point (the defrost heater has been energized and melted the frost) it opens, and stops power from reaching the heater, preventing it from continuing to heat. This device has 2 wires and there is no "polarity" or "wrong way" to wire it.

The last is the defrost heater. Like the defrost terminator, it too is located in the refrigerant coil compartment, and almost always directly below it. It is a fairly low wattage, two wire heater that also has no polarity and can't be wired wrong.

You'll need some simple test equipment (volt meter and ohm meter) to test these components successfully.

I hope this helps and good luck!

Oct 05, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Thermostat light flashing and none of the oven functions will work (fan, grill, heat etc)


An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
  4. To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  5. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
  6. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedure, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this was helpful.Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven does not work and the elements are good no f codes and the probe was change?


Hello there:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
    1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
    2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
    3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
    4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
    5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.


  3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

    Adjusting the thermostat:

  4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.


  5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.


  6. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.


  7. To remove the thermostat:
    1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
    2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
  8. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.

Jan 05, 2011 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

I replaced the heating elements(2) and switiches(2) on my Rudd electric hot water heater. Model PES 40-2. The switghes came with several wiring diagrams.(universal) Can I get a diagram specific to my...


Residential water heaters USUALLY follow same diagram unless water heater is wired for other purpose. Multiple diagrams on instructions show available options. Take photo of wiring before removing wires on any electrical device.
Upper element.
Black wire from top of heater connects to #1 top left screw.
Red wire from top connects to #3 top right screw.
Blue wire from upper element connects to #4 middle screw on right side
Red wire from lower element connects to #4 middle screw on right side
Yellow wire from upper element connects to #2 lower left screw
Black wire from lower thermostat connects to #4 lower right screw
Upper element: Yellow and Blue wires connect to either screw
Lower element: Red wire from top connects to either screw
Lower thermostat: Black wire from top connects to top screw
Short wire between lower thermostat and lower element

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-wiring-w-numbe.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

Sep 18, 2010 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

4 Answers

3 wire white rogers zone valve operated by 2 wire thermostat any one have a wiring diagram?


It is technically possible use a 2-wire thermostat with a 3-wire zone valve, but you need a single pole, double throw relay like a fan control relay with one normally open switch and one normally closed switch. 2-wire thermostats only have one switch that is normally open. 3-wire thermostats have two switches......one switch that is normally open, and one switch that is normally closed. The fan relay lets the 2-wire thermostat simulate a 3-wire thermostat. It's possible, but usually it's easier to just get a 3-wire thermosts.

Sep 06, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

York Heat Pump outdoor cutoff thermostat wiring.


You should call a professional in on this one you can damage alot of expensive parts trying to do this on your own without the proper tools and knowledge of the control logic

Sep 05, 2009 | York Yankees Bedding MLB Comforter

2 Answers

Wiring thermostat


a standard propane regulator should work. check on the required pressure for the unit and get a compatible regulator. try grainger supply. thermostat connections are usually 24 volt two wire, opens on temperature rise. connections on the burner relay are indicated TH-TH.

Nov 11, 2007 | Mr. Heater MHU45LP

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