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Our Eletrolux Inspire is creating a massive noice at the end of the program when rinsing the clothes. It seems like there's something jamed or stuck preventing the water from going out through the exi

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  • 46 Answers

That is the pump making that noise. Either there is something lodged inside (sock, undies,money;) or its going out. You'll need to remove to the front panel to check. Hope everything works out OK.

Posted on Oct 27, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis 6451 Stops abruptly at end of rinse cycle

sounds like the brakes squeal to me is that the end of the cycle if it is i would worry about it brakes do that not worth the effort of dealing with

Posted on Jan 27, 2008

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: wet clothes at end of spin cycle

sounds like your transmission is not working properly. check your warranty information. (should be in your owners manual) many of the whirlpool made top loaders came with a 5 year warranty on the transmission/gear case

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: The washer makes a very loud

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+28822791&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

A couple of possible solutions to your problems.
First: Banging during hard stop.

Assuming that the springs are OK and that the vibration pads are in place and not worn, (See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

the problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same. Whirlpool (and Sears) have replacement brake pad / spring sets.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


It's not an especially difficult job and can definately save you the cost of a repair person.\

Second: Not draining / spinning well enough.

I'd check both of the following while you have the drive tube out for the brake fix.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Maytag Centennial

I had the same issue. When I started the machine it began agitating and then began to fill as if it is beginning the second rinse cycle - well I think it was.... SO, I threw in some towels and began the cycle at the second rinse part of the cycle. Low and behold, the next load started and finished just fine.

I hope this helps. This is just one of many issues with this machine, but luckily I haven't had to call the repairman yet! They all seem to revolve around the thing being out of sync.

Posted on Jul 21, 2011

  • 662 Answers

SOURCE: GE Front load washer WBVHB240EWW. Approx 5 years

The fault could be with the drain out pump blocked or restricted in some way. Un-plug machine from electrical wall socket.

A small panel at rear of machine reveals the pump, pull out the two pipes (plastic clips hard to get off, slide them sideways), remove wire and un-clip pump from base of machine by lifting locking tab and sliding to the left, pump can then easily be cleaned. Of course be prepared for a lot water, junk overflow; careful it does not fall on wires.

Posted on Jun 30, 2012

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Our whirlpool wfs1285aw doesn't seem to be spinning and drying out clothes enough when Finished. The clothes are still drenched. Any ideas how to rectify this? Is there a filter that needs cleaning?


the rinse section spins slow while the rinsing is in process as this does 2 things
spreads the water through the clothes for a proper rinse
spins slow to equalize the cloths around the bowl
when the rinse cycle is finished and the tap is shut off it goes into a high speed spin
Your problem sounds like the program is not going to the high speed spin cycle and that would indicate a problem board
call a technician for a proper diagnosis and quote

Sep 15, 2016 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Oko 72630. Why is it stuck on rinse cycle?


Could be several reasons:
- Selected the "Night cycle" program (means standing with the drum full of water, reason: too much noise in the spin cycle)
- Set to the "Rinse hold" (means standing with the drum full of water, reason: wrinkles on the clothes)

According to your description I think that this is not a failure otherwise error E20 will be appears on display.

Once the washing programme has come to an end, END illuminates on the programme progress display.
If RINSE HOLD was selected, the display beside the START/ PAUSE button flashes.
1. After a rinse hold, the water must first be pumped out:
- Either press the START/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out and the washing is spun according to the completed programme;
After the START/PAUSE button is pressed again, the spin speed can still also be changed during spinning), or
- Turn the programme selector to PUMP OUT and press the START/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out without spinning),or
- Turn the programme selector to SPIN or SHORT SPIN and press theSTART/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out and the washing is spun or gently spun).
At the end of this programme step, the END indicator will illuminate.
2. Open the door.
As soon as the DOOR indicator lights up green, the door can be opened.

Dado

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1 Answer

Magiccolor 2350. Paper jamed(paper end only)in


Kindly open the delivery door and back side of the printer. Check the space between metalic roller and the plastic with the help of a pin or something thin like ruler. Probably a pin or stappler might be stuck there just remove it. your printer will work fine. Secondly check that if any plastic is burnt or melt over there if so then use something rough to make it plain.

Feb 17, 2010 | Konica Minolta magicolor 2400 Laser...

1 Answer

Hi- my dishwasher - single drawer fisher and paykel seems to be stuck on runners- will not open smoothly


this could be a broken wheel or something jamed inside the runner, theres a little plastic clip that is on the end of each runner remove the clips and pull the basket all the way out then check for broken wheels or something jaming it, or even a twisted runner. be carefull removing the clips as they can snap. Ps carefull of sharp edges too.

Jan 20, 2010 | Dishwashers

2 Answers

LOUD NOICE AND JUMPING


IT seems that the wash drum is hitting on the exterior body possibly the shock absorbers have flattened out. Also the balancing liquid in the top inner portion of the wash drum has leaked out u will have to check the two

Oct 08, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Machine keeps draining on the rinse cycle.


your drain hose is either stuck to far down in the drain pipe or your drain hose is sealed to the point it has no way air can enter the drain pipe which creates a siphining issue. your drain hose has to have a air gap so the siphing can not occur. the end of your drain hose should be no lower than 34 inches from the floor draped into the drain pipe with a way air can enter at that piont.

Feb 01, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

Wet clothes at end of spin cycle


sounds like your transmission is not working properly. check your warranty information. (should be in your owners manual) many of the whirlpool made top loaders came with a 5 year warranty on the transmission/gear case

Dec 29, 2008 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag Atlantis 6451 Stops abruptly at end of rinse cycle


sounds like the brakes squeal to me is that the end of the cycle if it is i would worry about it brakes do that not worth the effort of dealing with

Jan 27, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6451 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Whining noise, only in rinse and spin cycle, sounds awful.


Check the pump to make sure there isn't something stuck in it.

Dec 30, 2007 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

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