Question about Dayton Gas Furnace Heater
Could this just be a case of the draft inducer having an air leak somewhere? I know everything has to be sealed up tight (which I thought it was). I did notice that there are only two of the three screws that connect the top of the draft inducer with the vent tube that takes the heat out of the furnace to the house. Could that one little screw hole be enough to have the furnace not light?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First make sure this is a heater set up for a remote mounted thermostat. If so, the gas valve has 3 screws labeled TH (thermostat) and TP (thermopile) that's the flame sensor with 2 wires coming off it, I don't know where the goofy name comes from. there will be one screw that has both, usually the top one. Wire accordingly. The new valves have a solenoid on the bottom. this connects to the high temp. sensor up top. It has 2 wires on it, one connects to the thermostat wire, the other goes to the screw with TH and TP. Or you can skip it and connect the wire from the back of the valve to the Th and TP screw. Make sure the thermostat wires aren't pinched somewhere, thus eliminating the thermostats control.
Posted on Mar 02, 2008
If you intend to use this in a residential garage, you will have to use standard galvanized round pipe coming off the unit, 24 gauge will suffice, use a minimum of 6”-8” from the unit. From there you will have to make the transition to the B-Vent. Always double check with you local codes in your area.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
For anyone who finds this question in the future - It's the condensate drain hose for the heat exchanger.
Get a bucket and some towels handy and unplug the lowermost flexible rubber hose - if you do this right after the furnace has stopped, water will come gushing out. Mine was continually plugging up causing my furnace to stop, like yours - the L shaped plastic tube that dips into the drain trap on the outside of the unit (the thing filled with water) was too close to the bottom of the trap. I took it out, shortened it by 1/2 an inch (keep the same bevel that's on there!) and I haven't had a problem since. Blowing out the line would only hold things off for a few weeks before it started acting up again.
Cost me $90 for a service call the first time since visually it looks fine and I checked the upper hoses that go to the pressure switch :)
Learn from my service call!
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
SOURCE: we have a dayton gas
When your furnace starts...the Ventor motor(exhaust fan) starts up....within a short time (seconds) the Pressure switch closes proving that the Fan is indeed running and the vent is not blocked...if this doesnt happen the furnace will not poweer the ignitor or fire at all....Check the vent pipe outside and look for obstructions or dirt on the screen inside the pipe...the condensate from the fuirnace may not be draining at all...due to plugged condensate drain lines...find this tube coming out of the furnace front...bottom of upper compartment usually , and pull it off the tap....if water starts coming out then your drain is plugged downstream of the furnace.
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
make sure the hose from vent motor to pressure switch is not plugged, put tooth pick in both end normally the fan port is plugged.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
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