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If my failing memory serves me, for I may have it wrong
being a front loader, then I may be thinking of the wrong machine. The top loaders use a three phase type of
electronic control motor which works completely different to what I describe
Sounds to me the Centrifugal
Switch on the motor, I think that I can recall that the motor is a Squirrel
cage single phase motor with a Start winding, the switch turns off the start
winding when it the motor reaches a certain speed. You may be able to repair it
yourself by cleaning the motor switch bearing surface and lubricating with a
form of graphite grease. It will last forever. The old Greece goes hard with age making the
switch impossible to either switch on or off.
Symptoms of a stuck centrifugal switch when it's off, the motor won't
rotate and makes a growling sound. If
the switch contacts is stuck on, the motor become very hot (too young to smoke)
and will eventually burnout the motor's start winding.
Either something is binding the blower wheel up or the motor is bad. The best thing is to take the front of the machine off to access the blower wheel to verify ifanything is indeed binding it.IF not read the next section.
If you can turn the drum and then the dryer starts you have a bad motor. The way the dryer works is when you initially push the start button, electricity is sent to the start winding, or stator, of the motor. This will in turn start the motor turning. From there the stator will drop out of the electrical process and at the same time the run winding, or rotor, will take over and the motor will continie to run. Your stator is damaged, has a burn spot, etc so by you turning the drum, the belt around the drum is moved which is attached to the motor pulley. You basically take the place of the stator. Long story short, you have a bad motor.
whirlpool washers have a drive coupling in between the motor and the transmission to replace this remove the top and disconnect the lid switch set it aside remove the front panel then remove the 2 clips that hold the pump on then push it out of the way then remove the 2 screws that hold the motor clamps on and then remove the upper and lower motor clamps remove the motor then replace the three piece "motor coupling" one piece goes on the motor the other three pronged plastic piece goes on the transmission and the rubber isolator goes between them and now just put every thing back together
It almost sounds like your motor is kicking out on overload. The fact that it starts agitating after the fill can rule out the pressure switch. You have installed a new timer so we should be able to rule that out. It's possible that your pump is binding, which is attached directly to your motor and causing it to overheat. To tell for sure you would have to check the motor to see if it's getting power when it cuts out. Check your terminal block where the power cord comes in to see if all connections are secure. Other possibilities could be the clutch and brake assy. With out being there too see the problem, this is where I would start.