Question about Dell Inspiron 6000 Notebook

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Black Card on side of Laptop came out.

There is a button to pop it out but when I put the black plastic card looking thing back in the button won't go back in. If I push it the card thing comes back out. How do I get both to stay flush with the side of the laptop?

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  • stinker13 Jan 03, 2009

    Thank you!!! That did it!

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Push the button in until it clicks, then insert the card all the way.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Pc card eject button popped out and won't go back in


I've had that happen before. I just started using the tip of a ballpoint pen to eject the card. Believe me, if it doesn't just slide back on, you might have to disassemble the laptop casing to put it back on...big hassle. I suggest you just use a pen, pencil or something similar to pop out the card.

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Suddenly network card stopped work. can't connect internet


Try This: Unplug the power to the DSL Router for 20 seconds then plug it back up. Remove the power cord and battery from the laptop, then press and hold the power button for 30 seconds. Turn the laptop over and look for the screw on the Wireless Card Cover. Remove the screw and the cover (it may be a number of screws depending you your system) then unplug the antenna cables to the wireless card (normally a black and white or black and gray cable). Remember which cable goes where before you remove them. Remove the screw that holds the wireless card in the slot, then remove it. Put the Wireless card back in the slot and secure it with a screw. Put the antennas back on the wireless card and then the cover. Put the battery back in, plug in the power cord and reboot.

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Apr 05, 2012 | Computers & Internet

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Panaonic NI-R73NR Iron suddenly stopped working. Uses a small PCB with OEG PCD-124D2M relay which produces a sound when shaken as if some metal item is moving inside. Can this PCB be entirely replaced? Is...


Okay, here's what fixed mine. But first, understand this is a $23 iron and it may not be worth your effort. I'm an engineer and like fixing things, and I hate throwing stuff into the landfill, so I took the time to repair mine. If you can use a screwdriver and are good at taking things apart (and putting them back together) this will take less than an hour. NOTE: I often make use of a digital camera while taking things apart. Take a picture of things as you go, so you can see how to put them back together later.

The problem is the switch is corroded, from oxidation or carbon buildup, or both. Getting to it is most of the trouble. Follow these instructions:
1. Unplug the iron (helpful hint for the simple-minded. Can't iron if you're dead.) Dump out any water that's in it.
2. Remove two phillips-head screws from bottom of cord winder at base of iron.
3. Pull cord winder housing away from iron to expose electrical wiring.
4. Remove the small gray insulator card from it's slot to expose the screws that attach all the wires.
5. A red, blue, and black wire go up into the handle and attach to the shut-off circuit board. Tug on them gently to slide the circuit board out of the handle, remembering which side is up.
6. There's a screw inside the handle. Look where the circuit card came out and you'll see it in there. Use a screwdriver to remove it. Now you can lift up on the back of the small curved cover where the steam and squirt buttons are, and it will come off. Don't lose the steam setting button, it may fall off.
7. Now you can see the water jet nozzle. Lift it out of the way to find a screw under there. Take that screw out. I call this screw #1 for a reason.
8. There are three screws in the back of the iron, near the wires. They hold the iron together. Left and right are like screw #1. Take them out. The other one is a machine screw that's in the center, going down into the base. Take it out.
9. You can now lift the plastic part of the iron up off the metal part and set it aside. On top of the black plastic where screw #1 went through, near the pointy end of the iron, there should be a small washer. Locate it and set it aside. You'll want to make sure it gets back where it belongs when you reassemble.
10. There is a lamp that turns on when the iron is heating. It has two fine bare wires, a copper one (on the right if the iron is lying flat and you're looking at the base), and a silver one to the left. Find the screw where the silver one attaches and loosen that screw. Gently pull that wire off the screw. Note the routing of that silver wire around the black plastic, including where the tube insulator on the wire lays-- you will need to put this back right later. Lift the lamp out and the silver wire so it's more or less sticking up in line with the screw where the copper wire attaches. This will facilitate the next step.
11. Separate the black plastic cover from the brass-colored metal iron base by lifting at the pointy end of the iron. The wires will try to hang you up in the back, but if you wiggle things just right you'll be able to get them mostly separated. The lamp will need to descend down through the black plastic where the wires go as you lift the plastic cover off. As you lift it off, look inside. You can see where the rotary switch is inside there.
12. So here's the deal: the rotary switch controls a thermostatic set of contacts. This means there's metal in there that bends as it gets hot; the hotter, the more it bends. This controls your iron's temperature. When it bends enough, it opens a set of "points", which are tiny cylindrical contacts at the bottom of the rotary switch mechanism. Put on your glasses and look under the mechanism as you rotate the rotary control and you'll see them click open and closed. You need to clean them.
13. Get a small strip of fine sandpaper (400 grit or finer), about 1/4" wide and 2" long. Turn the control until the points are open and slip the sandpaper in between them. Now turn the switch the other way to get the points to close on the sandpaper. Pull the sandpaper back and forth between the points; that'll clean the contact on the gritty side of the paper. Now open the points again, pull the sandpaper out, flip it over, put it back in, and close the points. Now another few pulls on the paper to clean the other contact.
14.Remove the sandpaper. Put the iron back together in reverse order. Some things to watch out for: When you put the black plastic part back down onto the metal iron base, you'll need to make sure the wires and the lamp go the right way. You also need to make sure that the grey rubber grommet that lets water from the plastic tank down into the heated elements is properly pushed up through the hole in the black plastic. If you have trouble seating the black plastic onto the metal iron base, it's probably because that grommet is stuck halfway through the hole. Make sure you put the steam selector button back where it goes before you put the curved cover onto the top of the plastic tank. Getting the screw up through the hollow handle and into the hole it goes into can be tricky. I held the phillips screwdriver point-up and set the screw on top. Then I held the iron point-up and slowly put the screw up through the handle and into the hole. This might take a couple of tries; be patient-- you'll get it. Be sure to put the circuit card back into the handle the right way. Finally, be VERY SURE to route the lamp wires through the plastic parts correctly, and also make sure that you have correctly routed the red, blue, and black wires from the circuit card correctly before you re-install the cord winder housing.

Good luck!

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2 Answers

When i try to take pictures my camera says card locked.


It's the memory card or SD card you have in the camera. (it sounds like)
Try taking the SD card out and if you look at it closely there is a little switch/ thing you can slide. Slide it to the other side, put it back in your camera and try again. Hope that helps

Jun 02, 2009 | Samsung S860 Digital Cameras. 8-megapixel...

1 Answer

Hi, Simple question here. I have the Presario R3000 and there is a CD reader that pops out at the front left side of the computer and then there is some strange frame that pops out when I push a release...


Is it just a plastic frame that come out the side with the laptop logo on it?

If it is, thats just a spacer. That slot is meant for an expansion card like network adapter. Like those ones people get for verizon so they can have wireless wherever they go and get a good signal. It could also be used for a fir wire connection expanion card or for a memory card if you can find one that fits. It is bassically a mini PCI slot for a laptop,

You can throuw it out or just leave it in there, doesnt matter , its just a plastic spacer. Dell put them in every one of there laptops too. To put it back in, just push in the spring loaded stick thing that pops out, then insert the platic card back in.

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Sdio Wireless Lan Card Wlan 802.11b


The blank plastic is NOT to be used while other cards. I am assuming you are talking about the SD card slot on the side (black plastic filler) There should be no movement of the SD card when in place.
If you are talking about the CF card slot on the top of the Axim, again the blank plastic is a dust cover when no card is in place and is not used with cards inserted. There is a bit of open area on one side of the card. Carefull with the pins at the bottom and be sure to insert correctly. Again there should be no movement of the card once inserted fully.
Don't know what you are quoting from the manual. I still have mine and the only thing I see similar to your quote is to "align the tab on the back of the CF card with the notch in the CF slot.." This is to make sure you have the front and back correct and for removal of the card (by grasping the ridge/tab)

Jul 29, 2008 | Dell Axim X5 Pocket PC

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Fitting instuctions for replacing lcd screen on my samsung e250 mobile phone


ok...
1.take off battery cover, remove battery, memory card and sim card
2. remove the five screws on the back... two at the bottom, two in the middle and one on the mid top right and take off this cover, remember! keep the screws safe
3. slide the phone up and take out the two screws on the left and right paralel with the battery tabs then remove the two screws ether side of the camera...they might be covered by rubber coverings, these pop out easily
4.now you can prise the top of the screen off with a small flat headed screwdriver
THERE ARE TWO OPTIONS HERE, IF THE REPLACEMENT SCREEN HAS NO RIBBON CABBLE ATTACHED THEN FOLLOW FROM FIVE, IF IT HAS ONE CONNECTED THEN FOLLOW FROM
5. its conected to a ribbon cable, remove the tape and slide out the cabble from the screen.
6. now take out the screen PCB from the plastic casing and replace it with your new one and put the ribbon cable in and clip it back together, now reverse stages 3 to 1 to put it back together.
7. if the ribbon cable is attached now you must look at the PCB board on the back for a square copper line, on the left of this there is a big black square just smaller than the copper square, prise this off with your finger nails, keeping it to the side take the PCB up about 2mm and then fold the bottom of it to revele it is conected to a ribbon cable by a bigger version of the black square so prise this off and take the PCB and put it safely to one side.
8. look on the front of the phone under the top bit of the screen, there should be a semi circle in the plastic with a black circle in the top of it, use your nail or a flat headed screwdriver to pop it to the other side of the semi circle, now the slider should go past what it used to o you can slide it up to when you can see the ribbon cable go down through the phone, now push the black square end through and you should be able to slide the whole front off.
9. replace the screen by taking the screen PCB out and repacing it, then thread the ribbon cable back through and slide the front on while making sure the back circle goes into the semi circle and to the top side of it, then thread the black square through the phone to the front and clip the phone front back on.
10. snap the black square back on to the back Circuit then put the circuit back into the phone and snap the small black square back on then go from stages 3 to 1 to put it back together.
this should be fairly easy to do for most people.

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1 Answer

Front cover change


hi there
this is the procdure...

First remove the back cover, the battery and the SIM card.
Now remove the top part of the back cover (the part above the camera). Do this by inserting a small flat bladed screwdriver between the white and black parts of the phone, and lever the screwdriver up like a small crowbar on either side of the lens. The black cover should slide up and off the phone.
Looking at the top of the phone, remove the small on/off button and put it in safe place. Also remember to remove the little mirror or rubber grommit from beside the camera lens and put that in the same safe place as the on/off button. Losing these little bits will cause you no end of pain as they are not available as spare parts.

The next bit to remove is a small green plastic bit of circuit board. It's clipped in and sprung against some data pins. Again using the flat bladed screwdriver, pop it off in the direction of the top of the phone.

The whole rear of the phone should now be exposed. Using a T6 torx screwdriver, unscrew the four small screws indicated. Put these screws in that safe place.
Once the screws are out, hold the phone like so, and squeeze gently on the sides and lower edge of the phone case, the pressure should be enough to create a small gap between the fascia and the sides, using a fingernail or thin plastic (like a credit card) make the gap bigger until the fascia pops off. Repeat on the opposite side of the phone if required.

The fascia should now lift off completely, exposing the front of the phone.

Push your replacement fascia on until it clicks into place, and reassemble the phone. if all has gone well, you should have a T310 that looks as nice as the one shown above.

All the Best.

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Feb 15, 2008 | Sony Ericsson T310 Cellular Phone

7 Answers

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If your Gateway PC is laying horizontally flat. There will be a black button in front of the PC on the left side of the CD-Rom. Push really hard. And WallAA!

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