Question about Asko W6441 Front Load Washer

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Asko W6444 no power to front panel

Hecked power point, took off top panel and checked power into machine Ok but no power to front panel, no lights, can't operate machine which is only 4 months old

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4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 351 Answers

SOURCE: Asko W6021 won't start

change the carbons theres nothing wrong with the board

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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SOURCE: Asko W6761 Front Loader

check the fuse on the back panel if thats ok check to see where theres power it may be a display board fault.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: I've an Asko Front loader W600 bought in 2001.

Hi, welcome to FixYa.

I'll start by addressing the later part of your post first, and that is by saying I wouldn't run out and buy a new washer...not yet anyway.


You should be able to get the garments out of the washer by way of manually unlocking the door. The door can be opened manually, see below for instructions.

**Watch for lots of water if it hasn't drained though...see below for manually drain as well**

Usually if the door won't open it's due to the unit not draining sufficiently (this may explain the "shuddering" as well if pump has debris within it) or perhaps a fuse tripping, thus no power. Just to be thorough you should check the pump to insure the filter isn't clogged, in my opinion, or do you know where it is and how to check it ?

In the event the pump, filter or hose is clogged or obstructed, will prevent the door lock from releasing...potentially causing a fuse to trip.

This is by design, but it's easy to confirm or dismiss.

Check as follows...

macmarkus_23.jpg

Let me know if any of this isn't clear and I'll attempt to help you move forward by way of possibly emailing this info to you.


Once you've cleared the pump filter or ruled out it was indeed blocked or not, you can now pull the manual door lock release located in the same area.

i.e.

macmarkus_24.jpg

Once that has been done, I'd now check the fuses in both the washer as well as the dryer...if yours plugs into the dryer as most Asko do. To do so is as follows...


CHANGING THE FUSE


1. Remove the fuse holder insert with a screwdriver (1/4 turn).

2. Replace the fuse. (The fuse must be a 250V, 15amp slow-blow fuse.)

3. Fit the fuse holder insert with the fuse into the fuse holder.


macmarkus_657.jpg

Let me know how you make out. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck. Please take a moment to rate the info provided for you here today at FixYa.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on May 31, 2011

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My front load washing machine is working but the water don't seem to enter.


First of all check filters in hoses & water valves, if ok then water inlet valve may be burnt out. Unplug power cord, remove top panel panel, check where 2 wires go to each water valve & check that area on valves for burning. If burnt or smells of burning, replace valve. IN SOME INSTANCES A COMPONENT BURN OUT CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO CONTROL BOARD.

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I've got an LG Intellowasher, 7kg & it keeps stopping with an OE error code. What does this mean? I can do a pre wash, before it goes onto the main wash it stops with the code, also on the main...


Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

LG's 'OE' stands for 'Outlet (drain) Error'. I suspect it's struggling ;-0)

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor-

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Sep 06, 2011 | LG Washing Machines

1 Answer

I've got a crack in the inside tub. The fiberglass part. How do I remove the one side to repair this. And I take it 'J B' Weld will do the trick? LOL Thank you, Mary


Mary,

Google this ""16022808.pdf""

That will you take you to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual. The SM will take you thru front panel removal. the front panel and the washer top raised are the only access points for the FAV6800A and FAV9800A Maytag Neptune TL's.

JB weld should do it. I would rough up the crack area and place pice of fiber glass mat and resin.

Mary,

Google this ""16022808.pdf""

That will you take you to the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual. The SM will take you thru front panel removal. The front panel and the washer top raised are the only access points for the FAV6800A and FAV9800A Maytag Neptune TL's.

JB weld should do it. I would rough up the crack area 60 grit light sanding and place piece of fiber glass matt and resin.


How did this happen? Any sever wash tub swings in Spin Cycle?


I don't use this forum for deeper DIY support it's too difficult to find my older post for reference and no editing features.

Google this ""FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement"" I support a lot of owners like you and myself at that site. Fixya is OK if you can get help for this TL.

Good Luck dh1200s
If your machine is a FAV6800A or FAV9800A here is a pic with the front panel removed. I'm working on preventive maintenance for DC/UC unbalance errors associated with the Clutch Pulley a common failure with this TL..........Good Luck dh1200s


.dh1200s_11.jpg
Pic with the outer tub removed for Outer Tub bearing rebuild work.


dh1200s_12.jpg

Aug 05, 2011 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I took the front off the e machine w2888 desktop but did not notice the three wires was not one plug, what order and colored wire up or down. Their is a pwr led, pwr s/w, hdd led wire. Thanks Jerry


The eMachines W2888 uses an Intel D845GVSR motherboard.

This is the download page for the Intel D845GVSR motherboard manual, (Product Guide),

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d845gvsr/sb/cs-008823.htm

Left-click on the first file name in blue -
Intel Desktop Board D845GVSR - Product Guide (PDF)

This is a PDF file. The computer you are using has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.
After you click on the above file name it may take up to 30 seconds before the first page comes up.
It may also take additional time for the file to fully download.

[ Took 4 seconds to see the first page come up, just now. File was fully downloaded ]

At the top of the PDF file is the page number box. It is to the right of the blue Down Arrow.
This is the page number I will be referring to, and may not be the actual page number of the manual.

Go to Page 11.

This shows an illustration of the motherboard looking down at it from the top.
The letter S points to the Front Panel header.

[The plastic front of your computer is the Front Panel.

The area of pins on the motherboard that the cables (Wires) go to from the Front Panel, is the Front Panel header ]

Looking at the motherboard with the Processor to the top, Ram memory slots to the right, and the white PCI slots (3) to the bottom, the Front Panel header is located parallel to the bottom right edge of the motherboard.

(The illustration has the motherboard sitting on it's right side.
Not the direction it is sitting in your computer.
In your computer the motherboard is sitting as described above )

Now I would like you to go to Page 31.
This illustration shows the various internal headers on the motherboard.
The letter C points to the Front Panel header. (J9G1)

Note that the pins in the Front Panel header are labeled with numbers.
(Pinout)

There are 4 pins across the top.
There are 5 pins across the bottom.

Starting from the Left side of the motherboard, going towards the right, across the Top of the Front Panel header;

Pins 2, 4, 6, and 8.

Starting from the Left side of the motherboard, going towards the right, across the Bottom of the Front Panel header;

Pins 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9

Page 32: Front Panel Header

A) Pins 1 and 3 are for the HarDDrive activity LED light. (HDD LED)
Pin 1 is for the Positive ( + ) wire.

If the LED light is dim when operating, switch the wires around.

B) Pins 5 and 7 are for a Reset switch, IF used.
Pin 5 is for the Ground ( - ) wire.

C) Pin 9 is for a 5 Volt wire. (It's probably Red in color, IF used)

D) Pins 2 and 4 are for the Power On LED light. (Light Emitting Diode)

E) Pins 6 and 8 are for the Power On switch. (The Power On switch is located inside the plastic Power On button assembly)

F) Pin is N/C. Not Connected.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Jul 10, 2011 | E-Machines eMachines Desktop PC

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