Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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I have a Kenmore Elite HE4 Dryer Model number 110.85872400 and it is running but only blowing cold air? The vent is clear and there is no blockage in the dryer... I have a full 220Volts to my plug... Do I have a blown fuse or bad heating element?

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 7,482 Answers

Hi Rick
Here are a few more things to check, I know you have checked some of them but a few more places and things to look at.
*********************************************************************
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the heating element/thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
Please take time to rate me
Bud

Posted on Oct 26, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore model 76712 does not blow heat just cold air

The following link explains how to troubleshoot and dryer "no heat" problem and the common causes:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Read through the link thoroughly, paying particular attention to the section that discusses proper ventilation. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by insufficient air flow which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to failure. More commonly, the Thermal Cut-Off (TCO) fails. You will need to check all the components mentioned in order to be sure. If you haven't had your dryer ventilation cleaned or inspected in a while, now would be a good time to do so. Failure to correct any potential existing problems, can cause premature failure of any parts you replace.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know, so I can provide you with a viable solution. i hope this helps you.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer Model Number 110.85872400

Before assuming you have a bad heating element, read through the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. More commonly the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails. The component acts as a fuse and must be replaced if bad. In addition, if the TCO is determined to be defective, it is recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. Both these components work in conjunction with the heating element and are mounted on the heater box. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. These two components are often sold as a kit. If you fail to replace both of them you can experience premature failure of the component you do replace.

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. If you haven't checked or cleaned the exhaust ducting any time recently, now might be a good time to do so . A dryer left in a clogged or poorly ventilated condition will cause repeated failures in the heating circuit. Not to mention this creates a fire hazard.

If you read through the link and determine that you have a bad heating element, follow these steps to remove:

1. Unplug the dryer and remove the lower panel under the door.
2. Remove the lint screen from the dryer door.
3. Remove the blower fan housing vent cover.
4. Disconnect and label the component wiring on the heater box.
5. Loosen the mounting screw on the heater box front support.
6. The entire heater box, with element inside, should slide out of the dryer.
7. There should be a couple of mounting screws on the component side of the heater box that you need to remove and the entire element slides out.

If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat

The problem may not be the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Dryer blowing cold air only

older homes with fuses can have to fuses on the dryer circut-1 could blow and the dryer would run without heat

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Clean Dryer Lint Vent in Kenmore elite HE4

If you wish to clean the interior cabinet of the dryer follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltages are still present even with the dryer turned off.

2. Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You must remove the lint screen first in order to remove the blower fan housing.

3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: For better access, you can prop the front feet of the dryer up (a 2x4 works well).

4. Loosen the screws on the blower fan housing directly below the drum and remove. There's usually a small clip holding the cover in at the bottom that you may need to pull out to release. NOTE: You may also have to disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (yellow wires with white plug - use a small screwdriver to release the locking tabs) and/or ground wire to accommodate removal of the cover.

You should now have access to the dryer interior and the blower fan squirrel cage motor. Take the time to clean out the blower fan housing cover as well. A long bristle brush made for dryers works well at removing any lint inside the dryer in the hard to reach places, followed by vacuuming.

NOTE: After cleaning, you may experience a slight burning odor. This is normal as lint gets stirred up in the cleaning process and can settle on the heating components. The odor should dissipate after a short period of use.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

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werw
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