Question about Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Just had this problem today on our seven or eight year old Jenn-Air cooktop. When using the front right burner all ignitors would continue to fire until I turned off the burner. The three other burners worked correctly. After trying all the obvious soulutions w/o success I pulled off that burners control knob and the rubber seal which exposed the valve. Their was a bunch of crud in there. I put a small (one inch) paint brush in there and vigorusly loosened all the crud. I then inserted the nozzle of our central vac - which just happened to fit perfectly - and sucked all the stuff out. I repeated the proceedure a couple more times, reassembled the knob and started the burner. Worked just perfectly!!! YMMV. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 08, 2008
SOURCE: elecrical hook-up for cooktop
Based on your description...it appears the Viking unit may NOT comply with UL and the NEC....but implies that some local Codes may permit the suggested connection...and it may indeed be permitted - if the unit actually draws straight 240 and does not require a neutral for 120 volts (some cooktops do need the neutral for 120 volt control switches...such as your Jennair). Code now requires that new 120/240 units that require the neutral (your Viking unit states that it does not) be a 4 wire assmebly....and your unit MAY be an exception to this requirement.
Under those conditions...then it more then likely CAN be connected as you (and Viking) suggest - black to black, red to red,green to white...and insure that the junction box is indeed well grounded to the supply bare ground wire - so that the metal flex will serve as a supplemental ground to the cook-top.The only other consideration will then be - IS the exisiting wire size and breaker that used to supply the Jennair correct for the new unit..? And if so - then you should be all set with your suggested hook-up...but without electrical nameplate data for both units for comparison...I have no way to determine that....both companies make several different models with different power supply requirements.
If the electrical data is compatible between the two units...then you should be all set as suggested - without having to rewire the cooktop.
Hope this helps...please follow-up if you need more details or have new information for me concerning this cooktop.
Posted on Mar 03, 2008
SOURCE: cold air draft
the only way is to block off/check the flapper., if your not going to use for the winter you can disconnect the vent from under the cabinet temporaily and close off there till you can gain access to check outside grill
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
How do you get the inside area of the vent clean from the grease and oils where the filter is?? I have a rectangular box style downdraft that the vent goes into the floor, I pulled the filter, but the box is to slender to get an arm into to scrub the grease....... does the bottom come off, or is it a sealed unit? How do you get all the brease from the bottom if you cannot reach it?
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
Here is a blowup diagram of the cooktop.
Looking up the service manual - it is no longer available.
Hope this is helpful.
Thanks for using FixYa!!
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
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