Question about Kenmore Dryers
My Kenmore dryer 66812690 keeps turing off after about 20 mins and the close are still wet. It smells hot when I check on them but it won't restart the cycle until I let it sit and cool. Then the same cycle happens again. I just had the dryer duct work cleaned professtionally and it was plugged at the roof vent. This allows the dryer to run for 40 mins now but will still not complete a full cycle.
Did you clean the inside venting circuit inside the dryer from the blower housing.lint trap etc if the dryers full of lint a clean outside vent system wont help
Posted on Oct 26, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore gas dryer not heating
GAS DRYER, NO HEAT. CHECK THE HEAT SETTING FIRST.
IS IT ON AIR FLUFF? I'M NOT BEING SMART, BUT YOU WOULD BE SURPRISED HOW MANY CALLS I TAKE THAT ARE ON AIR FLUFF. SECOND, LISTEN FOR A DISTINCT CLICK WHEN YOU TURN ON THE DRYER. IF YOU HEAR IT, LOOK IN THE INSPECTION HOLE ON THE FRONT OF THE DRYER, OR REMOVE THE TOE PLATE TO VIEW THE IGNITOR. IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS AND THEN CLICKS OFF BUT NO FLAME, YOU HAVE A BAD SOLENOID ON THE GAS VALVE. IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF, THE RADIANT SENSOR ATTACHED TO THE SIDE OF THE BURNER ASSEMBLY IS BAD.
IF YOU DON'T HEAR A DISTINCT CLICK WHEN YOU TURN ON THE DRYER, THE MOST LIKELY CAUSE IS THE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THE BACK OF THE DRYER DOWN NEAR THE EXHAUST DUCT. IT IS A SMALL WHITE ITEM ATTACHED TO THE EXHAUST DUCT WITH TWO WIRES ATTACHED.
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
SOURCE: Heating element won't stay hot.
I assume you cheated out the door interlock switch when running your test. If you did not, then the dryer will shut off when the door is open as part of the safety interlock system. If you did cheat it out and the element shut off after about 20 seconds, then you may have a problem with one of the temp sensors. When an overtemp condition occurrs, it disables power to the heater and it will shut off.. Other considerations are the wiring to the heater.. if you had a poorly tightened heater wire that was ok when first started and cold but when hot and passing current opened, that would also exibit the same symptoms. If I were a betting man, I'd say you probably have a bad temp switch. You can measure them with an ohm meter ( dryer unplugged of course).. or simply jumper the wires together to bypass one to see if it is the fault. Make sure you replace a bad sensor and do not leave it bypassed or you risk fire.
Here is a link to the wiring diaghram of your dryer.. http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
Hope that helps,,
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
If your dryer IS heating, more than likely the heating element is NOT the cause. There are two thermostats that control the operation of the heating circuits. One, is the operating thermostat which regulates the internal temperature around 150 degrees and the other is the Hi-limit thermostat that cuts-off the heating circuits in an overheat condition of about 250 degrees. You can access the internal components through the lower front panel under the door. The panel can be removed by inserting a putty knife in the top seam where the panel meets the front cabinet about 2 inches in from each side. There are two retaining clips that you need to depress with the putty knife to remove the panel. Once the panel is removed, locate the heater box on the right hand side under the drum. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are located on the left hand side of the heat box. The Operating Thermostat (Internal Bias) is located on the blower fan housing under the drum. There are drawings available at searspartsdirect.com or appliancepartspros.com to assist you. Simply type in your COMPLETE model number (inlcude the "110." prefix) and you will find the heating circuits located under the "Bulkhead" heading. The Operating Thermostat (Internal Bias) is listed as item number 42, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is listed as item number 48.
What you need to do first is determine is the blower fan housing is unobstructed. I know you mentioned cleaning your dryer, but did you also clean the INTERIOR. The blower fan housing can be a common point for lint to collect and restrict air flow. In addition (no attempt to insult anyone's intelligence here) are you making sure you properly sort your laundry when drying? More dense items, will take longer to dry and overloading can cause the same problem.
If your blower fan housing is clear, I suspect you may have a defective Operating Thermostat. If you wish to double check everything to make sure, the following link explains some common causes of dryer problems:
If you have questions, or if you require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you solve your problem.
PS Even though I said I didn't believe the heating element to be bad, does not necessarily mean it is. They DO become weak with age and may not heat as well as they should. Double check the resistance. NOTE: Please ensure you UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Also, make sure you disconnect any wire leads when measuring across components for more accurate resistance readings.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
SOURCE: dryer does not heat
Check the thermal cut-off, the thermostat, and the heating element. Most times one of the tree is the culprit.
I have seen a bad timer cause the no heat problem a few times but 99% of the time it is one of the three I mentioned.
If you change the thermal cut-off make sure you get both the cut-off and the thermostat. A stuck T-stat will take out a cut-off in a big hurry.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
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Jul 14, 2015 | Kenmore Dryers
If you are having problems with your
gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor
goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working
you dryer is gas check out this gas
If you have an electric dryer, you can
have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to
out this electric
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