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Remove white stains around pool chlorine - Garden

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  • sgfd Oct 26, 2012

    These are white stains on your bricks at the water line and do they have texture to them or are they just stains?

  • Joe Riggs Oct 26, 2012

    They are white stains on brown quarry tile that surround a large indoor pool. Joe


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  • 19 Answers

Try soaking a towel with vinegar, leave on stains few minutes, scrub or wipe off

Posted on Jun 04, 2013

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How to clean a pool

super chlorinate keep cleaning filters and keep brushing walls and sides until you get a chlorine reading also make sure chemistry is correct PH between 7.2 and 7.8 Alk between 80 and 120 high PH will contribute to algae

Jul 08, 2014 | Pool & Spa

1 Answer

Algae removal from Intex Ultraframe pool with salt water/sand pump

Its a very tough strain of black alhae. Shocking the pool with liguid chlorine will do the trick. First lower the ph level by adding muriatic acid(either pool store or local hardware store carries it). This lowers the ph level quickly. Pour it around the edge of the pool. Wait an hour than add the liquid chlorine. Let circulate for 24 hrs than vacuum to waste. The chlorine is more potent when the ph level is lower, thus the use of the acid

May 23, 2013 | Pool & Spa

1 Answer

Having problems with metal staining. i was told that i should clean the heat exchanger. can i just take off the front header & flush the tubes with some d-lime. Thanks

There is a very specific method for cleaning heat exchanger tubing and using any acidic cleaner could potentially cause damage to the tubing, especially if it is erroded. As to metal staining in your tub... cleaning the heat exchanger is NOT the answer! If the staining is copper, then cleaning the heat exchanger is NOT going to correct the problem!. Your heat exchanger is likely copper and if it is the source of the copper staining, then the problem is NOT the heater, the problem is your water chemistry. In most pool service calls I have done, involving staining from copper or iron, the most common problem was low pH. If your test is showing a pH of lower than 7.2, then add pH increaser (baking soda) based on a base demand test. If after adding the needed amount of pH increaser, the pH remains below 7.2, then perform a pool stabilizer (cyanuric acid) test. If the results show higher than 80ppm, drain at least 50% of the volume and refill and retest again. A high stabilizer level in excess of 100ppm will result in a low pH and cause metals like copper to dissolve and stain the pool. Get the level down to around 30-40ppm if possible. Stabilizer is added to chlorine tablets to help hold chlorine in the water longer. You can unstabilized chlorine, but chlorine consumption is higher as a result. If the staining is copper, you should dismantle and inspect your heater for erosion and possible early stage leaks. Replacing the heat exchanger can be very costly. Proper preventive maintenance and chemistry balance will keep the staining issue under control. There are some products available on the market to assist with balance, staining treatment and overall chemistry control. I suggest looking at products by EasyCare, called Pooltec, Scaletec and Beautec. These may be beneficial for your situation.

Aug 04, 2011 | Hayward H-series Electronic Gas Pool...

2 Answers

Hi, my intex salt water system is not generating chlorine. There is no error codes and my water tastes super salty. Can you please let me know what might be the problem. It is brand new and was working and...

If the water tastes salty then there is too much salt in it. The amount of stabilizer is very important too. If it is low then any chlorine the generates will be gone when the sun hits it. Stabilizer is a chemical that has an affinity for chlorine ions and if it is not there the chlorine can be dissipated in a few hours when the sun hits it. Another name for it is Cyanuric Acid. It can be purchased in granular form at many pool supply stores or in a liquid form at Leslies. In order to get your pool blue you need to have the chemistry checked at a pool store or with a test kit (either liquid or strips). Don't buy everything a pool supply tells you to buy but start out with vinyl safe shock, stabilizer and salt. The pool store should be able to help you determine the dose. The following is what I would do:
1. Make sure salt is at the recommended concentration.
2. Shock the pool to recommended dose to start killing the algae.
3. Place the recomended dose of stabilizer in the pool.
4. Make sure pump and filter are working properly.
5. Check the pool chemistry on a daily basis until it is ready for swimming.
6. Check the chemistry on a weekly basis and clean the pool and equipment according to the pool instructions.

Smile, you are a pool manager.

Jul 07, 2011 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

I have a inter saltwater system and am using it on a 14 ft pool. All levels appear ok except copper. Copper is low despite 2 boost cycles. I was cautious not to add too much salt or Cushitic acid when...

I'm not sure about an Intex saltwater system, but you don't want the copper levels to be too high. This can cause staining on the pool liner that is difficult to get rid of. I'd recommend taking a water sample to a local pool store and have them check all of your levels. Since the chlorine produced by a salt chlorine generator is unstabilized chlorine, you need to make sure you have the cyanuric acid levels within the proper range. This can be increased by adding stabilizer or conditioner.

Jun 16, 2011 | Intex Pool & Spa

1 Answer

Dark stains on bottom of pool unable to remove using hoover

Dark stains are often from metals...what is the pH of the water? What is the free chlorine reading as well? Have you tried any stain treatments yet? What is the pool surface material?


Nov 16, 2010 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

My Hayward In Line Chlorinator has been great for 20years . I have replaced the cap about five years ago. It is leaking through the top & there is an awful lot of mineral build up inside the canister....

Nothing will remove the buildup because that is mostly the housing of the unit distorting over time with the chlorine inside. Puck quality has a bigger effect on water chemistry than the chlorinator itself though cheap imported pucks are likely to stain the inside of the chlorinator just like they often do to the pool. A new inline chlorinator is about $90 so I would assume it is better to buy a new one than to try and repair a worn out 20 year old one...just my opinion.


Sep 12, 2010 | Hayward In Line Chlorinator 9 Lb. Capacity...

2 Answers

Low flow indicator light comes on chronically. Never gets to chlorine production. Flushed out everything, tubes, water flow sensor & flap, new filter. Unplugged cord to reset computer. All connections...

If you have excessive calcium in your pool the calcium will solidify on your titanium plates. Look for little bits of white scale (looks like paint chips) in the pool usually by the outflow. To fix, unplug the chlorinator, remove the inflow and outflow hoses from the chlorinator, also remove the flow meter (piece of pipe that has the wire attached to it. Look in at the titanium plates. If it has white calcium coating it, then flush with the hose till it all comes off, if it doesn't come off remove that piece of PVC and soak in vinegar (haven't had to do that but thats what the manual says). Manuall says to drain 25% of your pool and refill with fresh water but I elected to just keep cleaning it out when the alarm went off untill all the calcium in the water turned to solid (had to clean 3 or 4 times). Be sure and vacuum up the calcium in the pool.

Jul 16, 2009 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

I opened my pool a couple of weeks ago and filled my Hayward CL200 chlorinator with 3'' tablets. I usually set the dial on 2 with good results. After over a week, the chlorine level was nill in the pool....

A CL200 Involves direct injection of chlorine into the pool. Water passes through the chlorinator and goes to the pool with chlorinated. WIth the 200 (Not the 220) I've only seen a handful with problems over the years with chlorine not dissolving. If the chlorinator is not leaking, and the control valve is moving freely here's what I'd recommend.

1. Are you using a new type of tablet?
If so remove the tablets and place into a floating chlorinator.*** WARNING Wear Rubber Gloves, while handling wet tabs****
Dial it all the way open. If the tablets don't break down at this point with in a day or two, They were over compressed at the factory, potentially have to much filler (most slow tablets should be 95-99% cholroine) or the water is too cold ( below 70 deg. This should not be an issue in July) If this is the case switch brands.

If the chlorine is dissolving in the floater but not the chlorinator it could be one of the following.
1. Make sure the direction on the chlorinator is correct inlet (from Filter) to outlet (to pool)
2.. In some of the newer 200 chlorinators there is a built in check valve you can see it in the bottom of the chlorinator You will notice a threaded piece in the bottom that contains a white plastic ball the size of a pea. If this ball does not move freely to the touch, odds are the filler in your chlorine has clogged it from moving, thus preventing the flow of water from dissolving the chlorine.
You can check this by removing the chlorinator from the pool, removing the lid and pouring water directly into the top. If you do not see water passing through to the "Outlet" side of the chlorinator a clog is most likey your problem.
I've seen clogs cleared with wire coat hangers and hot water. Be forewarned that hot water being poured into a chlorinator will cause the any residual chlorine to gas off, make sure you do not have you face over the chlorinator when you add the hot water and you do so in a very well ventilated area. A straightened wire coat hanger can be used to dislodge any obstruction in the check valve and "get the ball rolling again"

Hope it helps.

Jun 10, 2009 | Hayward In Line Chlorinator 9 Lb. Capacity...

1 Answer

Just got my pool repaster and need to turn on pump but for the last few years a big cloud of rust comes from the pool heater staining the pool. It's a Raypack heater, removing one of the panels looks like...

Rust is coming from the cast iron inlet/outlet header. Make sure your chemistry is balanced. If you winterize your pool, make sure the heater is completely drained. If you have an automatic chlorinator, make sure you have a chemical resistant check valve between the chlorinator and the heater. You can remove the inlet/outlet header and clean it before you start the system up. The copper heat exchanger should not emit any staining substances unless your pH is allowed to drop below 7.2, then you will see copper sulfate stains on your plaster (turquoise color).

May 03, 2009 | Raypak Rp2100 Pool & Spa Heater Lonox 407k...

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