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Pumps won't turn on on 725 beachcomber hot tub

Drained and refilled hot tub but now the pumps won't come on. It primed on it's own but still nothing. I can hear it clicking when I push buttons.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: have drained and cleaned out a hpl103/105 hot tub

Try disabling the heater and recheck. Unplug each component to control pack to identify which is causing gfci trip. This will isolate problem units or controls.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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zeusfaber
  • 247 Answers

SOURCE: no power to hot tub...

In all liklihood, your problem is a breakdown in the insulation of the heating element. The elements tend to be mineral insulated then metal jacketed. Once you get a bit of corrosion on the jacket and a little water gets into the mineral powder, it's insulation properties fall off sharply, shorting out the power supply.

There are two practical ways of testing this:

The pro way of doing it is to borrow a high voltage insulation tester, disconnect the power leads from the element and check the resistance between one of the elements terminals and the jacket. Treat anything less than a megohm as a failure requiring replacement of the element. (nb. This is one of those rare cases where you need to use a proper insulation tester - an ordinary multimeter often fails to find this problem)

The alternative is just to replace the element and see how much difference it makes.

A.

Posted on May 25, 2009

  • 297 Answers

SOURCE: hot tub mtor is on.....no jets....

you may have burnt the pumps up,pumps like that are water cooled they may have over heated ,you may need to replace the pump.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

mrhotandcold
  • 248 Answers

SOURCE: Just drained jacuzzi hot tub and replaced

bleed pump check fuses and connections

Posted on Oct 03, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: I just drained my hot tub to fix a leak and now

The pump motor may be locked up. If the pump wasn't considerably loud before you drained it (indicating bearings rusted out and going bad) then you may be able to free the motor shaft. Sometimes rust will accumulate between the staters and rotors within the motor. You could remove the shaft access cover on the rear of the motor. (Usually takes a 1/4" nut driver) If the shaft is accessible, and doesn't have a centrifugal switch mounted to the end of it, you may have a shot without professional assistance. It is usually slotted for a 1/2" wrench. Take the wrench and attempt to work the shaft back and forth until it frees up. If it already spins freely, then the start capacitor is likely bad and needs to be replaced. If the shaft offers resistance, then continue to turn it back and forth until it spins freely. Replace cover and switch it on. Its should start up fine. If the motor shrills, then the motor will need to be replaced. Hope this helps you.

Posted on Dec 26, 2009

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