Older Giant Vac B&S engine push leaf blower - rpms not staying up; need choke even when warm; carb adjustment screw doesn't change rpms

SOURCE: Leaf blower will not achieve full RPM's

try removing the muffler and scraping out any carbon build up in the exhaust mouth of the block. if that doesnt help you will probably need to replace the carb.

SOURCE: poulan pro bvm200 leaf blower/vac won't run on high

Is the exhaust spark arresor screen clean? a blocked exhaust will do this.

SOURCE: homelite hb 180 leaf blower

Changed all major gaskets: Cylinder to crankcase, case half, exhaust & carb. Now it runns right. The carb can be adjusted and the choke is full open when warmed up as it's supposed to be.

Gaskets ca be bought from Homelite directly at http://www.homelite.com/service_support/order_parts

Enter the model numbers & see the exploded views. Torque values are provided in the parts lists.

Jim Parker

• 1041 Answers
• Posted on Jun 12, 2009

SOURCE: Leaf blower will not run good. Only runs at full chike or half ch

If the trimmer is more than 3 to 4 years old, you may want to replace the carburetor parts, (new carb. kit). It also depend on the amount of use.
If it is newer than that, then you will need to disassemble the carb. and spray with carb. cleaner. Make sure that the small screen in the carb. is free of debris. Use a Den tek Brush,
(http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=165357&catid=1152), to clean the small portals in carb. Reassemble and start.
If you need further assistance, just let me know.

Jim

SOURCE: The engine on my Red Max EB7000 backpack leaf stalls or smothers.

The most common air leak problem on redmax or any 2 cycle engine will be found between the gasket between the cylinder and crank case. One person mentioned the blower runs fine for 15 minutes or so, then bogs down. Here is what is happening: the air leak from the cylinder gasket is causing a leaner gas to air mixture, thus causing the motor to run hotter. As the engine overheats, the aluminum piston expands against the chrome plated walls of the cylinder, causing the piston rings to get tight. Thus, more friction, in turn, causes the piston to not move as freely up and down in the chamber. If you keep running it like this you will damage the cylinder walls, the piston and the bearings. Remedy: The best thing to do at first sign of this problem is to purchase the cylinder gasket, the oil seals on the crank side and the fly wheel side, and the gasket kit that comes with the intake, muffler, and insulator gaskets. Replacing all of these gaskets at the first sign of bogging down after the motor heats up will extend the life of your blower. We have 18 of these blowers, and in every case where the crew leaders were complaining of the blower working fine for the first 15 minutes between job sites, this was the problem and the remedy.