Question about Dryers
Had this dryer for a few years. Two weeks ago suddenly stopped heating (few weeks before that the outlet outside the house was clogged up-removed and dryer functioned for another month or two). Disassembled front panel, cleaned the lint out and checked the thermostats/heating element. The thermal cut-off thermostat (on the heating box) had no continuity-replaced it, dryer functioned for two loads then no heat again. Again the thermal cut-off thermostat had no continuity-Thinking maybe the high limit thermostat was welded closed I replaced both the thermal cut-off and the high limit thermostat. Dryer worked again for one load and the thermal cut-off thermostat failed. Now, I have disassembled the dryer and tested every thermostat. There is a thermal cut-off thermostat and thermistor (going into the drum) in addition to the 2 thermostats on the heating box. The thermostat going into the drum has continuity(manual states <1 ohm), the thermistor reads about 13K ohms at room temperature (manual from manufacturer says 10K ohms at 77F), also tested the moisture sensor, that does not have continuity at the sensor, the manual says approx infinite ohms without laundry, 190 ohms with wet clothes. Now I have also disconnected the exhaust line inside the house and although there is lint on the sides there is no blockage or major restriction and there was good flow coming out of the house the first time I changed the thermostat. I am perplexed why this keeps burning up the the thermal cut-off thermostat. In fact this last time it even melted a portion of the plastic thermostat near the prong and part of the wire as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I am not familiar with the model.
That the thermostat keeps failing, due presumably to overheated/burned contacts does indicate the element is drawing too much current. I can think of no other reason to explain your experience except possibly there is excessive arcing at the contacts as they open and close. The addition of a suppressor capacitor might help but the big question to be answered is why is there too much current or excessive arcing...
I can only suggest you thoroughly examine the heating element looking for breaks and accidental short circuits between the coils of the element or connecting wires.
Posted on Feb 28, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac
Posted on Jul 20, 2011
SOURCE: No heat in a Profile
The thermistor at the back of the dryer is the inlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 2270 ohm at room temperature, not zero. A zero resistance means the inlet thermistor is shorted and the control board sees it as an overheating condition and does not activate the heater relay. Replace the inlet thermistor with part number WE04X10111.
The thermistor on the blower housing is the outlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 10000 ohm at room temperature. The heating is good at 17 ohms and inlet safety thermostat and the high-limit thermostat on the heater housing and the outlet safety thermostat on the blower housing must all have continuity.
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Posted on Jul 22, 2011
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