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Re: no hot surface igniter
This is why swapping parts is never a good idea. It could be a board, pressure switch, or several other issues. I'm a service technician and realize that many furnace issues are difficult to diagnose over the phone, or internet.
Calling a qualified, NATE certified technician to diagnose and repair this properly is probably the best solution that I could suggest. Yes, there will be a bill and it will be expensive, but it will be a lot less so than changing out parts you might not need.
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ignition failure. insure air pressure switch closes, hot surface igniter is getting 120volts. check continuity on hot surface igniter, make sure all gas shut off valves are open and gas valve is turned on. make sure there is no blockage in the exhaust
The entire igniter should glow, if it does not the temp to ignite the gas is not met and the burners will never light. When replacing the igniter never touch the element part becuae it will create a hot spot on the igniter and fail.
Hello, Most newer gas furnaces (propane or natural gas) has one of several different types of igniters. The most common one is called a hot surface igniter. This is a ceramic easy to break, glow coil, glowing igniter. Some has a Spark igniter that lights all the burners from a constant spark and some light the burners off a pilot proven /spark igniter. This one sparks then lights a pilot then the burners will come on. In any case if any of these types are not working they could be cracked or broke. Also the inducer draft motor has to be running, the little motor that hooks to the exhaust of the furnace ( if it has one ). This causes the pressure switch to close then the igniter should come on. My suggestion is to call a qualified service tech from your area to assist you. To determine which one of these may be your problem they will have to perform several test. Hope you get going soon. I hope this helped. J
From what I saw when I googled you furnace it has a hot surface igniter. It only gets hot when it's time to light the furnace. You should be able to see it glowing red when the furnace is trying to light. The furnace has a safety feature which shuts the gas valve when it doesn't detect a flame to prevent gas build up in the furnace. There are other safety features also. If the draft inducer motor isn't running the gas valve won't open. Overheat switches some of which have to be reset manually. Adjust the thermostat until it calls for heat then observe what is or isn't happening in the furnace. It will go thru a purge cycle first. The draft inducer motor will run to do this. After the purge the hot surface igniter should get hot a glow, then the gas valve will open and the burner will light. Let me know what you find.
If you mean hot surface ignition and not spark then look in front of the far burner from the glow plug and clean the rod in front of the burner with a piece of steel wool, the rod is probably dirty and can not sense the flame, so the gas shuts off.
Check the roll out switch(s) and the lock out switches. They are a small disc looking about the size of a nickle, with with 2 wires attached on them. There will be a re-set button in the middle that resembles a small peg. Push this in to re-set. As the glow coil shorted out, the fuse on the control board may have blown. On the newer furnaces find the main board and look for a car type fuse. If blown, replace. You also have the symptoms of a bad limit switch, by the clicking noise (the heat fan relay) and the blower fan running instantlly.