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Re: the primer bulb hose
Depending on how the carb is set up, when your looking at the front of the carb if you see a small nipple on the right side of the intake close to the bowl that is it. If there isn't one on the right then look to the left side of the intake, if there is two on the left side it's the top one
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need to clarify your statements
you say-- have replaced flexible lines from the tank to the engine --replaced the primer bulb
well that is all the rubber hoses from the tank to the pump on the engine
Then you further state only parts not replaced are the connections between the
gas tank and the motor and the tank itself
Well that connection is the rubber hoses that you stated were already replaced
So this may help rubber in outboard motors rots internally so replace all rubber from the tank to the motor, overhaul the fuel pump on the motor and all the rubber hoses from the pump to the carby/s
the primer bulb will not pump fuel if the tank vent is not open so that is one reason you feel like it is pumping air when priming
best advice is --no e-mix fuels to used on out board engines
Small engine primers that I've seen don't connect to the fuel line. They operate by sucking and pushing gasoline that's already in the carburetor reservoir into the throat of the carburetor via a small port that is built into the carburetor housing. Recommendation: Next time you replace something, see how it was connected in the first place.
Did you replace the fuel lines as well?; the rule of thumb is, when changing out the fuel lines- you should replace the primer bulb since they are a barometer of each others condition and wear.
If you did not remove the primer bulb from the carburetor when you were cleaning the component parts (and predicated that the primer bulb is mounted on the carburetor, as opposed to being mounted remotely from it)- the solvents used to clean the carburetor could have broken down the plastic or rubber material that makes up the primer bulb- hence suction leaks or complete failure.
If you did remove the bulb assembly, make sure you snugged everything up and there's a tight seal. I would still replace it anyway- they're inexpensive.
BTW, you mentioned you are using "fresh high grade fuel"- are you using premium grade gas? If so, save your money and use an 87 regular octane gas.
What you should be concerned with is- the use of ethanol. In many mid-western states, gasoline is blended with 10-15% ethanol- which can absorb water from the atmosphere and cause corrosion in the fuel system.
The money you save from buying regular unleaded could be used to buy a fuel stabilizer, which I highly recommend you use. Gas is only good for about 30 days and then the volatile compounds in it begin to evaporate- leaving brown gummy deposits that will eventually harden like varnish- which can plug up the fuel lines and carburetor.
Please let me know how you make out. Best wishes on your project.
You need to rebuild the carburetor, as the main needle is no longer seating properly and the diaphragm is also shot. Rebuilding is pretty simple if you take your time. Total cost should be less than $20 for both the kit and a spray can of carburetor cleaner.
The numbers you supply don't cross to an operators manual but that is typical of Homelite/Ryobi. I'm going to make an educated guess that it does not have a primer system. Other Ryobi saws with primer systems include it in the specification. The 3535A does not. Close scrutiny reveals no primer.
IMO fuel primers on chainsaws are one more source of problems. In the USA ethanol additives attack fuel hoses. Without a primer routing is from the fuel tank directly to the carburetor and much simpler to replace. Primers on chainsaws operate differently than 4 cycle engines too. No fuel is injected into the carburetor or engine, its only purpose is to ensure the carburetor is full of fuel, Typical Fuel hose routing:
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
It sounds like your motor is starving for fuel. At an idle, you have adequate flow to keep the engine running. When you call for more fuel...you sputter and quit. Could be a clogged filter or trash in the line or in a jet. Yes you will have some air in the bulb, but not a great deal. You could be sucking air at a hose connection (loosing some prime)...try this, start the engine and slowly accererate, have someone pump the bulb as you accelerate, see if the engine works properly while doing this test.