Question about Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

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Check light comes on in gas setting at random times

The fridge will run for different lenghts of time, sometimes a day or two, then the check light comes on and I have to re-set it. Other times it will only run for a few minutes. The fridge works great when plugged in to a/c.

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Make sure you have good hot batteries fridge should be getting 13-14 volts Could be a bad ground unplug them and spray with electric parts cleaner, but most likely the main circuit board is bad. Take the black cover off the circuit board and if it is filled with yellow epoxy it is almost positively the circuit board.

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

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I HAVE WHIRLPOOL ET4WSKXKQ05. FREEZER STARTING TO GET FROST AND FREEZES, BUT NOT COMPLETLY. THE FRIDGE PART IS GETTING WARMER DAY BY DAY.


Hello,
Most times this is a bad cold control, but there are other things to check for. Make sure the condenser fan is working and the coils are not covered with dust. A separated heat exchanger ( small capillary tubing soldered to the large suction line ) can separate from one another and make the fridge run too long. - tape tubing back together. A poor working evaporator fan motor could also make the fridge run too long and freeze - replace the fan motor. An inefficient compressor or refrigeration system could make the fridge run too long and freeze - have a service tech check this out. A misaligned control settings, make sure the air damper and cold control have not been bumped and are out of normal settings. Stuck open air diffusers or air dampers are becoming more and more common for allowing too much air to be blown into the fresh food section and freezing things. On all frost free fridge's the freezer temp air is blown into the fresh food section, if you have "easy" to freeze items ( eggs, veggies in water, etc ) in front of or under where the freezer temp air comes out, they could freeze - store them in a different spot. Doors not closing properly making the fridge run too long is something else to check for.
Hope this will help to solve then problem..

Aug 14, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge not getting cold, set at coldest setting. bottom Freezer is cold though.


Hi.

The problem can be a defective defrost system. The defrost system comprises defrost thermostat, heater, defrost control and fan. The parts that fail more commonly are thermostat and heater. Both parts are located behind freezer firewall and tested reading impedance with a multimeter.

A test on the defrost system can be done by performing a complete defrost manually (remove food and leave power disconnected overnight). If the fridge restarts working after defrost, then problem was the defrost system. In that case the problem may return after few days or weeks, meaning that one part in the defrost system is faulty.Parts must be tested.

If the defrost makes no change, then there is a different problem. The damper ventilation system , the temperature control or the refrigerant gas pressure may be the problem. When the problem is one of these faults you get the compressor is running regularly, but will stay on most of the time.

If the motor is humming and clicking most of the time, but not properly starting, then the problem is usually the starter relay/capacitor. Relay and capacitors can be replaced to fix the problem.

Here a tip explaining how to deal with a similar problem on a different fridge model: Fridge not cooling. Procedure is similar on your model.

Regards.

Aug 06, 2011 | Amana Refrigerators

1 Answer

Camper fridge does not work on gas.


right where the gas comes out there is an elect igniter do you see or here it clicking some times carbon buildup causes it to ground out inproperly sometimes the bracket gets rusty the bracket needs to be able to fire a spark directly twards the jet good luck

Apr 12, 2010 | Electrolux 25.9 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Fridge does not get cold, lights are flashing and whoo whoo noise


Hi,
Lights which previously did not flash but now do are clear indicators of operating failure.
Refridgerators and freezers do not like being unplugged for too long. if yours has been disconnected from the power for more than a couple of days, it could be damaged and need part replacement.
The variables are cold leakage, cooling gas leakage, electrical pump failure, thermostat circuit open, thermal cut-off switch disconnected. All of the above can be dangerous - electricity, gas, over-working pump etc. so always remember what we learned in kindergarten - If in doubt don't' - good advice with anything risky.
If you set the fridge on the coldest setting, place a common thermometer inside, note the initial temperature after closing the door for 15 minutes and then leave the fridge door closed overnight, in the morning carefully touch the heat transfer coils at the back, they should be hot all over to the touch. Open the door and check if the temperature has dropped.
If the whoo whoo noise is coming from the pump (often located in a black closed saucepan-sized unit you need to contact a qualified Whirlpool fitter.
If the whoo whoo noise is coming from around the edge of the door, the airtight seal is possibly defective. The seals often get dust etc. trapped in the accordian-like sealing strips around the entire door so, being careful not to damage the seal, clean the inner grooves - an old toothbrush and household cleaner generally work well.
If the fridge is a self-defrosting type, the lights may be indicating that it is stuck in defrost mode - check the Whirlpool website for troubleshooting temperature settings. There is often a small regulator switch which can break down. If you think that this is where the noise is coming from do not go fiddling about - electricity is a to be treated with care. Look for scorch marks or listen for crackling noise indicating a short sparking. Unplug the fridge before poking around the wires. A connector may have been dislodged and needs to be reattached so double-check that the power is off before reattaching the loose wire. It should be obvious where it plugs in but if not, don't go touching different tabs.
Re-read the installation and operating manual or call a fridge repair service if you are unable to find the fault. You can save time and repair costs by telling the repair person what you have tested and the results.
The built-in thermostat could be malfunctioning and preventing the coolant coils to absorb heat.
Sometimes the defrost drip tube can become blocked. This generally runs down the back into a drip tray. You should be able to check for blockage by thoroughly cleaning the tray end of the tube and blowing through it. Don't ****.
I hope this helps,
jenni.

Sep 09, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My dometic 2611 dosent want to operate correctly. Check light consistantly comes on. I'mm connected to ac power all of the time. AC sometimes works for a day or so then it might switch to gas for no...


If your unit is automatically switching from AC to gas for no reason, then you either have a problem with the power supply or the lower control board. On the outside of the fridge, there is a black box located in the lower left corner, this box is the control unit. The control unit senses the incoming power source and automatically switches it to LP if no AC power is available.

Turn the refrigerator on and set it to auto. Let it run until you notice that it switches to gas. Immediately go outside and check for incoming 120VAC power at that lower board. If you have power there, then you have a bad board. If you do not have power, then you have a power supply problem. Check the electrical plug and outlet in the fridge compartment and also make sure that your GFCI's throughout the coach are ok.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

Jul 06, 2009 | Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

1 Answer

I have a Dometic fridg in my 2005 motorhome and when I start my f


You need to unpush the gas button on the front control. If the gas button is pushed in, then it is trying to run on gas and with the tank empty, it is unable to light. That is why the check light is coming on. If you turn the gas side off and have it on auto, it should switch to the AC side and work fine.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

Jul 05, 2009 | Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

1 Answer

Dometic fridge 'check' light keeps coming on...won't cool


Yes , the check light is there to tell you that your out of gas yes this is true but the device which switches to power is not changing over which will not let the heaters work and will not start the process of cooling, I suggest to inspect the switch and ensure that this is the case first before consulting a mechanic.

May 11, 2009 | Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

2 Answers

M2800 fridge


If it doesn't click or the light doesn't flicker it is probably either you don't have good strong 12 volt power getting to the fridge(12 volt required only to light on gas the first time) or else the little gas igniter module went out looks like this only sometimes black.
384e312.jpg

Now if it won't stay lit. It is something wrong with either your flame or your thermocouple. First try just blowing out the the flu right where the flame comes out blow compressed air in so if there is dirt or cobweb in there it comes out the back side. If that doesn't help disconnect your thermocouple and wipe the end and then connect it back up and tighten it. If it still wont stay lit still replace the thermocouple.

Sep 15, 2008 | Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

1 Answer

Loud humming noise as fridge is running


if you have ice buildup then the fridge may be low on freon.
or there is dust clogging around the pump or fan is not running.
remove the bottom or back and look around the compressor.
see that the fan is running.

Jun 04, 2008 | Sub-Zero 661/F Side by Side Refrigerator

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