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Re: HOW DO YOU TAKE OFF THE FACE PLATE
There is no face plate. Do you mean the actual grey cabinet? This is not easy to remove, as everything on the turntable is attached to the cabinet. So, you will have take apart the entire turntable in order to do this.
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The platter on the JVC LA-10 does not come off as most turntable platters do. It is attached to the spindle with a Philips head screw.
Here are the steps:
Remove dust cover from turntable. Unscrew hinges and lift.
00.jpg" alt="Remove dustcover at hinges.">Remove dustcover at hinges.
Secure tonearm to prevent stylus damage.
00.jpg" alt="Secure the tonearm.">Secure the tonearm.
Remove slipmat from platter.
00.jpg" alt="Remove slipmat.">Remove slipmat.
Turn the turntable on its side and remove screws that hold the top to its base. Remove platter by unscrewing the bottom plate from the turntable. The spindle bearing is held in place with a Philips head screw. Loosen it and the platter will separate easily from the spindle.
00.jpg" alt="Separate the spindle from the platter by loosening with a Philips head screwdriver.">Separate the spindle from the platter by loosening with a Philips head screwdriver.
remove the rubber plate at the top of the record player,, under that is a metal plate, in that plate is a large "sight hole" look in that as you turn the plate around,, look for the belt that has fallen off the motor shaft and the plate itself,, if you can't locate it, there is a spring clip at the base of the post that holds the metal plate on, remove that , you will see the motor shaft, and the ridge on the underside of the metal plate that the belt has to be on, they sometimes fall off in shipping,
I've used an 'RF isolator' or 'ground loop isolator' to remove hiss Its essentially a $20 1:1 transformer (ie no transforming) with RCA ins and outs. I got mine from Radio Shack (now called the source i guess).
Hi Denise, I am in the consumer electronics repair industry. It may be as simple as this... Lift up the MAT on the turn table. This is the black rubber covering that you place the record on. Look through the holes in the plastic turntable (rotate if necessary) until you see the motor/pulley shaft sticking up (brass color). The turntable belt may have dislodged from this pulley. If you see the black flat rubber belt near here, just put it around the pulley again. Make sure it is not twisted and sits flat. Spin table by hand to be sure it is seated properly. Now you may have to remove the plastic turntable itself if you can't see the belt right away. In this case, remove the C-clip with a flat screwdriver (be sure not to lose it) from the record center post. Lift the turntable plate up shaft. Check to see if the belt is still partially around the plate. You may be able to just see enough to wrap the belt around the motor pulley now. If you need to take the plate off completely, then just place the belt first around the groove on the plate and finese the belt around the motor pulley. Now seat the plate, replace the C-clip and place the MAT back on and it should be good to go. I had this same problem on a new turntable I got for free. Good luck : )
You might try grounding the device. Run a wire from the metal frame of your turn table to the screw on the face plate of your outlet (very simplest way to get a good ground). See if that works. If you do see improvement, you could rewire the turntable with a 3 conductor wire, taking the green to the same metal frame of your machine.
You may want to consider plugging your turn table into your amplifier - in that case, ground the turntable to the amp for best results.
You might also try turning the plug over if it is not a polarized plug.
You can also check your outlet to make sure it is wired properly (white wire to the big slot and black wire to the little slot (in the USA) ground on the round slot)
Static muffling/removal/'elimination'/masking is always a trade off. Your software doesn't really remove static - it filters the frequencies that static uses to make the static noise. So, yes, you have a dulling of the frequencies in that range. Sorry to tell you that ... it has been an issue ever since I got interested in this stuff at age 10 or so (giving me about 50 years experience with static at the consumer level).
Problem might be the 33 switch. If it's gone bad, it will cause this kind of problem. The issue is not the motor. Possibly one of the capacitors or resistors might have gone bad. Not easy to determine without the proper tools and a service manual.
- Davis DJ Pro Audio www.djproaudio.com www.repairnyc.com
What do you mean by the top plate? Do you mean the actual outer shell of the unit itself, or do you mean the platter? Both are available as special order from - www.djproaudio.com and range in price from $40-120