Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV
I have had a Mitsubishi DLP 52525 for 2+ years now and recently the green timer light started to rapidly blink when the unit was turned on and it continued to blink without the picture coming on. After discconnecting the power and then using the system reset button, the problem remained. I swapped out the lamp and the tv worked for about a day and now the same problem is occurring. I have hit the system reset button but to no avail. There is nothing in the manual that deals with what is indicated by a constant blinking green timer led. Looking for suggestions.
Even if you replace the capacitors already mentioned in this
thread, you may still suffer from the Green LED of Death. Here is how Bronson279 helped me resolve the
problem. But note that it involves
adding a switch to your tv set and requires a bit of soldering ability and the
willingness to void your warranty. BUT
you can save big $$$$ on sending the set out for repair.
Here is my solution-
After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors
from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance
values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105
degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in
after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up
normally. But when I had to unplug the
set to fully re assemble it, it came back.
The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and
the DM (Digital Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish
communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each
thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot
process over again.
You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser
Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart
replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to
disassemble the whole thing again.) On
the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis
there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”.
It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an
inch from the connector. Solder four 12
inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and
one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder
connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but
make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the
connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch
(one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside
terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to
the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange
across from orange) See the diagram below.
The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and
break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering
the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you
can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.
Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires
outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to
get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV.
You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I
drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you
can do it however you like)
Here is how to use it-
From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires
are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60
secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so
the wires are connecting. Hit the power
button. The TV should turn on- your done!
From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out,
state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip
the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv,
wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on
normally… Again you are done…
Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to
flip the switch the other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking
LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get
it to work. If you tried turning on the
TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure
Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the
repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair
Manual –full This is nice to have
because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
Not sure if anyone is still having this issue. Try this: 1) Unplug the electrical cord from the wall. 2) On the front panel of the TV, hold down the power button for 1 minute, then let go 3) plug the electrical cord back into the wall 4) Turn the TV back on like normal. The green flashing light should turn off after 1 minute and the set should be good to go.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
I am posting this as "I can solve this"
and I can.
Don't call Mitsubishi or any of their subcontractor repair people, Instead,,,,,,,
Scroll up or down this blog till you find,,,,,
83 Other Users Have The Same Problem Posted by mlt1974 on Apr 02, 2009
IT WORKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I had to wait till everyone was gone. I thought, "what if this is someone getting me to look like an idiot?"
"but, wait, what if it works??????"
I unplugged my WD52825, as directed, and then manually pushed in the front panel Power button, and then slowly counted to 60.
The "green blinking cursor of death" would attack me without warning whenever I used a public High Def channel. Yes, I am one of the few, who still refuse to pay for cable or satellite.
That was what I did this morning.
I then turned the set on, set it to a high definition channel for ABC or NBC, and I left it on and went to work. I fully expected it to be off when I got home.
IT IS STILL ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you, mlt1974 !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mitsubishi owners everywhere salute you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Golly, that is sooooo simple, why didn't I think of that? I did try the dead chicken and the Gnostic Luciferian chanting, and the Catholic Priest with the Holy Water, JUST JOKING! THIS SOLUTION DOES WORK, BUT YOU HAVE TO ADMIT, YOU HAVE TO JUST ASK, WHY?!?
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
I have the same problem, so I unplug the Tv, I take the air filter cover out, then I clean the filter. I put the filter and the cover back.
When I plug the tv again, the green light flashes for almost a minute and the Tv will WORK!
I have to do this at least every 2 weeks. Mitsub should take this units back and give us ur money back.
Posted on Aug 05, 2008
Mits 52725 rapid blinking of Green "Timer" light.
Reset, power off doesn't work. Have done the following several times and works for my problem.
I have the power cord plugged into a power strip. Push in and hold the reset button, turn off the power strip, wait for a few seconds, then turn on power strip, then release the rest button. After several seconds of blinking, the green light goes out and the TV is ready to go.
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
Suspect the DM PCB part # 934C116002
Posted on May 14, 2007
By the time you get the flashing green light and the caps are bulging you have other components that have failed and need replaced as well. If the bulged caps do fix the problem it will only be for a short time and will fail again. There are other components that need replaced that only the experienced should attempt.
Posted on Feb 14, 2010
I have the WD62725 same problem. Mitsubishi paid a local certified tech to diagnose the problem so they can review my case because the TV is out of warranty. , End result was Mitsu would pay for the parts (300.00) and I would have to pay for Tax, Shipping/Handling, H/Call, Shop Labor totaling 448.00 out of my Pocket. I've elected to not spend the money on this Tv rather buy a new LCD for a few hundred bucks more. Mitsu also had to replace the light engine on this TV two years ago which they covered 100% of the cost for that issue. When I bought the TV new It took 3 deliveries before they finally gave me one that worked. I'm looking at Samsung or Sony LCD.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
Did you try these?:
1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-78A 9. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C) See Service Tip VS-78A 1. Red status LED, self-diagnosis error 44, check for open F9A06 on the Power PCB part # 283P128050 on the Power PCB 2. Red lamp LED, self diagnosis error 34. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 930B921002 3. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature, this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector LE pin 3 and 4 on the Control PCB, if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D776001 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector LE pin 3 and 4 check good. Suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C121001 6. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnect the USB connector from the card reader to the front from the Chassis, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds replace the Card Reader part # 299P271010. 7. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) Disconnecting the USB connector from the Card Reader did not help. Remove connector FC from the FMT PCB and plug the unit in, if the LED stops blinking after 70 seconds with FC removed suspect a problem on the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002), if the LED keeps blinking with connector FC removed suspect a problem on the DM PCB (part # 934C116002). 8. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the DM PCB (part # 934C116002) check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-78A 9. (LED does not stop blinking after plug in) On the FMT PCB (part # 930B924002) check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22, and C8F27 (16V 1000 UFD 105C), if any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C).
Good Luck, big IRISH.
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
OK first thing for everyone to understand, the reason why the green blinking timer light is such a common problem is because it is not one single problem in every single set, the green blinking timer light means that there is a short detected that does not allow the DM/FMT boards to boot and synchronize properly.
There are many different models with different chasis that will run across this issue.
The first one I cam across was a mits WD62528, it was a $6000 Television new the customer paid for it, green blinking timer light, i tried reseting unplugging etc.
I then took the TV apart and pulled the chassis, first thing I checked was the Capacitors on the DM module as this is a common failure, no such luck.
I then followed the correct trouble shooting procedure and found a voltage missing problem turned out to be the Micro Board wich i ordered a replace from mits and sent the old one back in for a core charge
second problem was the E2P wich is a very small single chip board wich has to be sent to mits for reprogramming (takes about 6 weeks :( ) problem solved TV still working perfectly
2nd television mits WD52525
Green blinking timer light, opened it up and pulled the chassis found 4 bad 1000uf 16v caps on the dm board and the fmt board replaced put the set back together, still green blinking light, checked surface mount fuses (small white boxes) on DM and FMT board, found 2 bad fuses on the FMT 1 being a 4Amp 1 being a 3.15Amp replaced with pico fuses (they work the same easier to solder on)
put the tv back together and timer light stopped! turned on television everything booted up lamp everything still no picture, the television shutdown lamp light solid red, i held menu and device to get the error code wich turned out to be 34 wich is lamp abnormality, but there is nothing wrong with the lamp, according to troubleshooting documents this means the power board needs to be replaced.
I hope this may help out a few people, again folks just because there are a lot of people with the green blinking timer light doesnt mean that mitsu makes junk, they just made their televisions do something when they short out rather than being completely dead, there are many diff problems that cause the blinking timer light, and as a technician I don\'t see very many mitsubishis in the shop for repair, and if you are having issues with a television repair shop having to fix your mits over and over again USE a Different one, there are many diff auth shops for warranties and many diff techs for not being under warranty..
Lastly I did want to repost this information as it will help solve the timer light problem on %90 of the mits televisions as long as the troubleshooting steps are followed correctly.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
IT WORKS!!! We have no technical or soldering experience between us, but me and my partner were able to overcome the problem of the blinking light, thanks to the helpful posts above. We had bought a used 55" '03 WS 55909. When we checked it out to buy it the picture and sound was great. We hauled it on the back of a truck for 40+ minutes, we got it home and the dadgum light wouldn't stop blinking and we couldn't turn it on. We were so bummed when we looked online and saw that the it had a name. The Green Blinking Light of Death. It WAS working, we saw it and experienced it, and it would be a shame not to at least try, so we went with Solutions #9, with the backup of #3. Our TV had 7 capacitors, not 4, but we figured, close enough. We ordered the parts from a company on Amazon, and for $12 including shipping, we used the soldering tool we somehow already had, bought soldering wire at the hardware store, and got our TV to work! It's been a week now, we've been watching movies and really enjoying it. Thanks so much Chris and Nat and Sir Junkbucket. You guys are great to be sharing your knowledge with us clueless ones in a way that REALLY HELPS! Bless You!
Posted on Feb 17, 2010
DO NOT do anything to your Mitsubishi WD-52525 until you
read this forum overseen by a Mitsubishi certified repair technician: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/mitsubishi/11703-problem-mitsubishi-wd-52525-scrambled-picture-no-picture-2.html
. There has been a worldwide problem in computers and TVs over the
past several years with faulty electrolytic capacitors (from Taiwan) that decay,
dry out, swell and die. The power supply is often the first component to
go bad, but other systems also degrade over time. As the forum explains , this problem is widespread in these sets causing multiple types of display problems after several years of
use. Mitsubishi is aware of the problem and will cover most of the cost
of repairing the chassis, even years out of warranty, but apparently ONLY if you
get an estimate from a Mitsubishi certified repair station and contact their
customer support BEFORE doing any work on the set. I just
followed the recommended procedure on that forum and Mitsubishi is covering half the cost of my $700+ repair when my 3+ year-old set recently died and showed
only a blue screen.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
Solution #18 worked for us. It is simple and no replacing anything. (After you replug the TV, you may need to hold the Power Button down again for a second or two before you restart the TV.) Try it both ways...just be patient for the blinking light to go off. I usually get frustrated and start pushing buttons on the remote or TV, etc., which probably messes it up again. This solution has worked great for us the last two times the blinking happened...and it has been a long time between the episodes. Good luck!!
Posted on Jun 07, 2010
Well guy's, heres the scoop, I am supprised nobody out here thats a tech has posted this. The problem that the mitsubishi has been having is due to bad capacitors in the digital board. They are usualy 680 to 1000 MFD @ 16 volts, there is 6 to 8 in parallel to each other to obtain a high MFD value.. On the older rear projection models they are located on the digital board on the left. On the DLP they are buried and I mean buired in the metel box that is a real nightmare to take apart. On the DLP there are also capacitors that go bad on the input board and the power supply. What happens is the defective capacitors loose their value over time due to too much heat in the circuit. The manual says to plug the set in and wait 70 seconds for the green light to stop blinking (basicaly it is booting) does a self diognostic. When the green light does not stop blinking, that means the data is currupted. A poor DC source such as the 5 volt supply to the micro needs filtering, and thats what these caps do. The fix is of course is to replace the caps, I put 25 volt caps in place of the 16 volt caps. On the rear projection units it is easy to do for an experienced tech, on the dlp' it a nightmare, by the time you've got the thing apart ( about a hundred screws) you have this mess dangling all over. I have done the job, but will not do another one. Mitsubishi engineers must not care if the set gets serviced. Thats why most techs wont even touch it. Hope this helps, Have a nice day.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
This has happened a few times in the 3 years I have had mine. The solution is quite simple. Unplug your TV for at least a minute, plug it back in, and you'll see the green light is still flashing; it will flash for another minute or so, and then stop. At that point, turn TV on as normal, and you're back in business. I hope from reading the previous posts, this problem doesn't become a huge issue. For now, this works for us.
Posted on May 25, 2009
Solution no. 5 worked for me. I replace all the 1000 uF capacitors on the DM board, FMT board, and PWB terminal board without success (although they were bad). I finally added the switch to the FMT board and the TV powered up with no problems. The job is fairly easy to do; the roughest part is removing all of the shields and making sure that everything is put back in place.
I would suggest that the switch and the capacitors shall be replaced. When replacing the capacitors, replace them with ones that have the longest lifetime (10,000 hours) and make sure that the voltage rating is the same or greater.
Hope that this helps other people out when it comes to fixing this problem.
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
READ "CHRISANDNAT" SOLUTION. THIS IS THE WAY I FIXED MY PROBLEM, AND THERE IS NO NEED TO SPEND $900 TO FIX THIS, MY TV HAS BEEN WORKING FOR ONE YEAR NO PROBLEM. TOOK ME ABOUT 30 MINUTES ONCE I PRACTICED THE SOLDERING.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
I have a wd52631 I have volume and no picture for a minute and it shuts off I relaced the bulb and it only worked for two days and the same problem came back.I tried the reset with no luck.Is there a way of testing the bulb?
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
I just fixed mine. same thing happens to me. it happens every time our electricity goes out. anyway, i just got mine to work by pressing and holding the reset button, then rapidly tapping the reset button, then pressing the reset button and the power button at the same time. i didn't think it would work but after a few minutes of just sitting there i realized the light had stopped flashing. hope this helps some of you guys.
Posted on Jun 10, 2010
Solution #3 worked for me. It is a little bit detailed to do the capacitors, but if you can solder and disassemble and reassemble well, you can do it. I work on copiers for a living, so I did it with not too much difficulty. It was a little scarry at one point when I looked up and had TV all over my living room.
But this was a definite winner for me.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Green Blinking Light is due to the DM module not booting up mitsubishi claims you need to change the 4 1000uf caps on the DM pcb, This fix rarely works plus if you fix that your probally have the FMT pcb or the power supply pcb fail next, caps generally do fix the power supply pcb but not the FMT pcb. Best thing to do is to pull chassis and ship to mitsubishi for rebuild wich will take care of all probs. i think they charge like 300 plus shipping. Usually don't have any problems after that.
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
If there is made heat by a lamp then i am thinking what can then caused the problem ?
There is a heat bulb lamp and several components need cooling often there is a fine dust filter used because in order to keep clean the prism mirrors, most hot great 2800 lm beamers have also this and i have an old model back in the begin ninetees a polaroid beamer that was getting so hot and the first thing i see was the fine dust filter it was fully close beaten and all capacitors were deformed people have never looked on this fine dust filterthat caused all of it it was been cooked the whole machine and everywhere there where black spots in the picture that was the reason and a not stable picture but it was var to late to repair all that components in that kind of early beamers what havea principal similar system
Mitsubishi Electric WD 52525 Service Manual Page 14
Posted on Apr 27, 2016
Ground the AC plug two prongs together for about 5 minutes. This will discharge the capacitors and the television will come back on.
Posted on Sep 20, 2015
I have a WD65735 with the blinking green light problem. The capacitator fix is mainly for the WS series. I did not have a ventilation warning and had a no error code. These TVs are like giant computers and are sensitive to temps. I took mine apart and found dust built up on the heat sink on the processor behind the fan. Cleaned it and set works like brand new. Make sure fans are clean. Free and easy fix.
Posted on Jun 29, 2013
See solution #3 it worked for us when nothing else did. we only ended up spending 30 dollars between capacitors and dpdt switch!
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
Need to order high temperature capacitors and a service manual?
Here is a link to the Service Manual, blinking light instructions and 4 High Temperature 1000UF 16V Radial Capacitors.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
Here's a link to hi-temp 1000uF 16v caps, good to 130C
I have the continuous blink, so I may try solutions 6-9.
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
I follow solution #3 and it work.
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the dlp will most likely need a qualified mits repair center to take over for you. repairing that set is pretty involved. and the parts you would need are not available to the public.
on your 48" CRT projection check the DM module for 4 vented 1000mf 16v capacitors. replacement should get you tv working great
Posted on Feb 20, 2008
Replace the 1000uf capacitors on the DM board. thats whats causiong the problem. If you need further help go to this link they have your service manual available for emailing after purchase and that will entitle you for free tech support and one of their techs can fix those sets in his sleep he will walk you through the repair which parts are only about 20 dollars to fix the problem.
Posted on May 08, 2008
I don't know about nettiser's credentials, but I've found plenty of people who would disagree with his/her assessment.
The flashing green timer light after a lightning storm seems to be a very common problem with old Mistubishi rear projection TV's. A friend and I had the exact same problem.
Using this and other sites, I spent $36 bucks and a little time with a soldering iron to replace the capacitors on the DM board and got mine up and running (WS55859). I've never really worked on electronic circuit boards before, but the helpful advice at these sites got me up and running. Definitely check it out before you hire someone or replace your TV:
Repair Kit with instructional CD available at:
for under $40 plus shipping.
Discussion of process in detail at:
for the WS55859 model, which may be a little different.
Posted on Aug 03, 2010
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