Question about Sunbeam Irons
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No steam
It appears that your rocker switch is broken, I am attempting to find a source for the switch and the screw driver that removes the screws holding the unit together
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
SOURCE: Steam Iron
The cycling on and off of the steam iron is not abnormal. The themostat in the iron on and off the power supply to the heating element, keeping the temperature of the sole plate constant at the desired temperature. Without this on and off mechanism of the themostat, the sole plate will contiune to heat non-stop till extreme temperature.
My question to the op is how do you know if the iron is not fully heated? I suspect that you misinterpret the cycling of the iron as a defect and assumed that the iron will not fully heat up.
But in fact if the temperature of iron did not raise to expected, then it is a different issue.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
1. Blown fuse
2. Broken thermostat
3. Broken power cords
4. Broken heating elements
first of all check FUSE.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
SOURCE: Iron not heating up...
I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:
- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.
I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.
I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
SOURCE: 4268 iron leaving residue
This will probably just need de-scaling. Buy some descaler and there should be instructions on the packet of how to de-scale an iron. Usually by warming the iron slightly, switching off, emptying out the water and then adding the diluted de-scaler to the iron and leaving it in an almost horizontal but raised position in a bowl or something so that some of the de-scaler will drain through. Then emptying out, re-filling with water and then iron something that you don't mind getting marked while any residue get's flushed out.
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
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